Hey there! Thanks!
I'll try to answer your questions, and then go on with the story...
(quote: You brought up two interesting points I wanted to ask a question/comment on. When you recognize that you aren't a big finisher (the comments on Whit Pony), you sorta leave out the fact that it sounds like Whit had an excellent handle and foundation to build on, put there by you. When you go to practices like the one you mentioned, or perhaps the smaller ones you've talked about in the past, do you take your finished horses, or do you take your horses like Whit Pony who are coming up the ranks. Or both? What are your approaches with each in these regards?")
My answer:
Most of the time, since horses like Whit pony, and now Extra, are my project horses, they do not get to go to practices, unless I take them there as a turnback horse. This is simply a logistics issue. We have a seven horse trailer and we need to fill it with paying customers, not my project horses. I simply do not have the extra cash to haul my project horses to cattle all the time. I suppose if I had a huge supply of cattle, I could finish one up, maybe not as good as Matt Gaines or something ha ha ha but I could make a show horse I think, with Don's help. My horses just don't get enough consistent exposure to cattle, usually. I did end up showing Gem Pony for two years with my hand down after having her as a two handed project. I won five buckles and about $2600 on her, and she is now winning for her new owner. Don helped me A LOT, however, with the finer points, getting her sharp, etc. That final step that is the (HUGE) difference between a low level club cutting horse and a real deal NCHA level cutting horse is the timing and experience and feel that Don has, to take them to that next level, from good to great.
(here is a picture of Gem Pony as a baby at a two handed show:
And the next year when I got brave enough to put my hand down...
And a few months before I sold her...at an NCHA show winning a check:
When we go practice, we take whatever horses need to be taken. Like Wednesday, Don took his two futurity horses, Jane and Champ, and he took Pablo and Lizzie, who he is showing this weekend at the weekend show, and I took Hal, who I'm showing this weekend. (quick update: I won my class today. I was currently in third in the year end standings. With the check from today I am now only $45 out of first place. Don took third on Pablo in his class and maintained his lead for the year end. And Whit Pony's new owner won her class as well, so did Gem Pony's new owner).
(quote: " Obviously you expect different results because of where they are both at in their training, but do you approach them differently, or just try to give both horses something to "get with" when you're working the cows?")
My answer: The goal at practices away from home, no matter the level of the horse, is the same: a good positive learning experience for the horse. The difference just comes in knowing and feeling what that horse needs at that time, and setting up the situation accordingly. There are lots of different ways to work cattle. Some horses need lots of warmup, some need hardly any, etc. Mostly that is a feel thing. My goal with Hal, for example, at the practice, was to get him thinking about staying on his hip and backing up over his hocks instead of getting excited and diving at cattle. He is an excitable horse with a BIG motor, so keeping him slowed down and correct is key with him. With a different horse, though, like my "other" project horse, Brownie, who isn't quite as hot and cowy as Hal, my approach would be different. For her, I would keep stepping her towards a cow and then breaking fast with it, letting her face up and look, to get excited about the game.
(Quote: "Would you ever consider using a horse that was not headed for the big time and training that horse more for ranch work? It seems like your goals are all the same, but that in some instances, a ranch horse might need to be a little more doggy broke because of the need to move cattle with less stress. Thoughts?")
My answer:
Yes, I guess I didn't explain myself that well, I think. My project horses do get a lot of different exposure. For example, here is Whit Pony as a three year old a few months after I started him, gathering before a branding.
And here is Whit at the first practice I ever took him to:
Let's see if I can rephrase what I meant...
A good all around cow horse is definitely broke. They stay between a rider's legs, can have a rope thrown off them (I can't rope that well though so don't do that much), can go outside, can walk flat footed through cattle, etc. What I meant about too doggy gentle is I see a lot of people get their horses what I would call, almost, overbroke. They spend so much time sacking them out and lunging to death and doing that one rein stop thing until they take ALL the forward motion and reaction out of their horse. I've ridden a few like this and while they are super gentle and probably wouldn't react if a bomb went off under them, I find that they are also slow to react to a rider's leg, to a cue, to a cow, etc. And when asked for a little more than a "doggy" response, they tend to sull, never having been asked to step up before. When I start a colt, I don't want it jumping out of it's skin scared, but I also dont' want to sack all the reaction out of them. Because cows don't wait around for you to tap tap taptap TAP TAPTAP argue nag until your horse finally decides to heed your cue. This does not mean a horse has to be crazy or scared. A good cow horse will walk completely flat footed into a herd, or the arena, and then turn on the turbo when needed, and then put it back into slow gear when needed. To me, that is broke. Pat Parelli had a good example once like that, saying he wanted his horse like a good muscle car. With a big engine and a lot of power, but that doesn't necessarily mean you have to race everywhere. He says you can go up to the stop light, and idle there, but it is still apparent by the idle that you have a lot of power under the hood.
On the other hand, a horse like Hal, for example, is not a horse that is really "doggy broke." My project horses are probably way more broke than him or other show horses. Hal is spooky and prone to jumping sideways unexpectedly. It's just part of his Emo personality. A lot of the really super cutting horses I have been around are quirky that way.
(quote: "The other part is the comment your friend Robert made about a colt reverting to what he learned in his formative years when he gets real overexposed. I agree and disagree with this. I think there is a part in there that the horse looks for leadership (even for a split second - miss it and it's gone kinda thing) before going over to the instinct and falling into "default mode." It takes a good horseman to sense that he's slipping in the first place and provide the proper level of guidance there to bring him back. I've been really lucky to work with some total squirrels (you remember the story of Cowboy I told you, right?). I find if you just listen for that quick question, no matter WHAT they learned at two (and Extra was probably set up to win far more than the po-dunk ponys I've got ever were), you can reel them back into you. Now, the question, beyond THAT, if you were to MISS that, what do you like to use to bring them back to you?")
My answer:
Well it's mostly what you said, you just have to keep it in their comfort level, and try to change the ingrained habits of a horse that has some holes in the foundation. For example, we did have this horse, that would rear off cattle on the end and try to walk on her hind legs out of the arena when she got long on one side. She had had way too much pressure put on her by her previous trainer. He got her scared on the ends. He would run her past cattle, put her in a precarious position, and then punish her severely for failing to come back (despite him being in her way, blocking her from feeling able to come back). She opted for the "I"m outta here!" response.
My trainer spent a year rehabbing her. He first taught her how to move her ribs away from a cow, put her nose to the cow, and back up and look at the cow. Every time she got long, she would get scared, he would just back up and look at the cow. Easy. Simple. No big deal. Over and over and over until she could do it in her sleep. Basically trying to re-wire that initial response that she would have, of getting long on a cow and going, oh no oh no oh no I'm going to get in trouble, I can't handle, it, I'm outta here...to "I can do this, all I have to do is back up and look!" It takes real good timing.
Then one day we were at a show, and he was showing her, winning the cutting, and the other trainer was there. He yelled over the fence to his daughter to bring him some splint boots. The horse HEARD HIS VOICE and instantly reared up and started walking on her hind legs out of the arena. Don was like, "this isn't my horse!!!!" Well for months afterward she was a basket case and all we could do is just go back to the basics. Back up and look, back up and look.
(quote: "Just a thought, but I'd bet your feel, timing and balance are all good enough to not overexpose Extra in that round pen. I don't think you need that line.
However, I think it's aces that you took the "Extra" precaution and used it. That would be an example of one of the reasons I admire you as a horsewoman, buddy. You're always putting things where it's easiest for the horse to understand and you really put effort into finding that place for the horse and setting him up to win.")
My answer:
Thanks again, buddy for the compliment!
That is why I had the line. Not because I anticipated it to be necessary, but I knew that it might have been. It turns out that I did use it.
Back to the story...Extra has a lot of go. He had a lot of forward motion as soon as I got him in the round pen, he wanted to go. Which is fine. I know a lot of people want their horses to walk and be slow right off the bat, and spend a lot of time stopping them, but to me, a horse isn't really broke unless you teach it right away to have Free Forward Motion...meaning go forward...RELAXED. Forward as in loping. Now he is a young horse and has spent most of his life in a pen, so I didn't want to put more stress on his joints than necessary. Our round pen is a 50 footer. I would prefer it to be a 60 footer. So anyway I'm not of the run them until their tongue is hanging out and they are so tired they will "join up" with you, but also I do want a good relaxed free forward motion. A horse is only as broke as how much pressure you can put on it. While I don't want to go overboard on a baby horse, I also do not want to get in the habit of tip toeing around them and not asking for enough for them to feel like they are not having to give me anything.
Anyway, Extra did try to go over the fence. This is where the timing on the line comes in to play. Mostly, to get this out of the way quickly is a matter of watching your horse. If you get good at watching a horse, you will start to notice that there is always a "pre" signal. Like when you are on the road and there is a stop sign coming up, there is always a "stop ahead" sign first. This is so you are prepared...you don't just have to all of a sudden slam on your brakes to avoid skidding through the intersection. You see the "stop ahead" sign, you take your foot off the gas and put it gently on the brake and by the time you get to the stop sign, you are stopped with no jerky slam. Well a horse is the same. Extra definitely gave me the "I"m going to try and go through the fence right here" sign. Mostly, dealing with this is a matter of getting your observation skills up to par and then being able to react quickly enough, in a smooth and effective manner, to change their mind about what they are going to do, hopefully before they do it. Just as you would not wait before you ran off the road into the ditch before going "oh no! I ran off the road into the ditch! Now what?" Well it would be better to do what you have to do to stay on the road in the first place
So when I saw him giving me his "I"m going to try to go through the fence right here" sign, I instantly took the slack out of the line and pulled his head around towards me, at the same time driving him forward. Here is another important thing... some people when their horse goes into a disobedience, they will pull them towards them and Stop the forward motion. I do not necessarily think this is always a good answer. I will instead let the horse know he needs to stay focused on what we are doing, in this case, going forward. A lot also of making this work on the lunge line is simply getting handy with the line. When I first started starting colts, I was not handy with the line and would often get tangled up, or would not be quick enough to be effective with my aids. The horse would flip around and get tangled in the line, etc. Now, with experience and practice, I am better at it. All it takes is persistent practice
Anyway, Extra wasn't hard to convince. He only tried it three times and then gave it up, lowered his head, licked and chewed and relaxed. I kept the lunging session short. Then I brought him into the center and rubbed him all over. He still is wary about me getting behind his barrel, but I just kept at it for a while. I didn't have a whole lot of time. When he was cool, and relaxed, I put him away.
Anyway, I'm glad you asked all these questions. buddy. I don't think this will be very fun if I am just preaching. I hope more people ask me questions..this is not an exclusive post. I would love it if people asked me some questions, because it helps me conceptualize what I am doing, as well as hopefully inspiring some others to seek out more knowledge.