The Bits and Bitting Thread

[almost_mozart]

Several members suggested that this might be a helpful sticky, so I took it upon myself to start a thread explaining the numerous types of bits and how they work. This is quite an extensive project, so I'm sure I'll need plenty of help--and this will take a while. I'm going to try to break separate topics off into different posts for clarity.

If you want to add something, or if you that I made a mistake and something is incorrect (which is quite likely!) please don't hesitate to PM me and I'll edit my post and fix it.

Here are the topics that I plan to cover (the ones in red are those I'm not 100% confident writing about and will almost definitely need assistance).

Introduction

Materials
Stainless Steel
Sweet Iron
Copper
Rubber/Plastic
Aluminum
Etc.?

Mouthpieces
Jointed "Snaffle"
Three-piece/Dogbone/Roller/Lifesaver
French Link
Correction/Port
Chain
Mullen
Solid (Standard "Pleasure" Mouth)
Etc.?

Types of Bit
Snaffles
Shanked Bits
Tom Thumbs and Argentine Snaffles
Gag Bits
Draw Bits
Combinations
Lifter Bits
Spade Bits
Pelham
Kimberwicke
Etc.?

Bit Alternatives
Bosals
Hackamores
Sidepulls
Bitless Bridles
Etc.?

Specific Examples

[almost_mozart]

INTRODUCTION

There are literally hundreds of types of bits on the market, and the options can be overwhelming for someone looking to make a selection for his or her horse. From the most basic $5 curb to several hundred dollar custom bits and the "fix-all" fads, the variety is astounding.

While a solid foundation is of the utmost importance and no bit can fix training issues on its own, it is true that each bit works in a different way and serves a different purpose. Some horses work better in one type of bit, while another might prefer something entirely different. It's up to the trainer to find something that the horse works well in to reach the animal's full potential.

As a horse matures, grows, and changes, its bitting needs will probably change as well. If it begins to have training "issues," it may be time to step back to basics with a gentler bit, not reach for something harsher with more control.

Disclaimer: I am no expert, nor do I claim to be, but I do have several years experience with many different types of bit on a variety of horses.

[almost_mozart]

Materials:

Stainless Steel

Stainless steel is probably one of the more common materials on the market (especially in cheaper bits, though this does not mean it's neccessarily a bad thing). It tends to dry the mouth out more than some other metals, but some horses simply seem to prefer it to the alternatives. It is very durable, easy to clean, and will not rust--so it looks good and lasts forever.

Sweet Iron

Another common material, sweet iron increases salivation and encourages horses to play with and accept the bit. Many horses like it for this reason. Because it rusts and turns dark, it doesn't look as "pretty," but it does tend to last a long time if cared for.

Copper

Copper also encourages salivation. It can be found either in the entire mouthpiece (rather uncommon) or as inserts in either a stainless or sweet iron bit (very common). This is a softer metal, so completely copper bits may not last as long as others, especially if the horse chews on it due to its taste.

Rubber

A rubber (or rubber coated) mouthpiece is very gentle. A completely rubber mouthpiece will bend with the mouth when a lot of pressure is applied. Some horses love this bits; others absolutely despise them and will run through them. If your horse tends to chew on or mouth the bit, the mouthpiece will have to be replaced periodically as they will literally bite through the rubber. Some rubber bits are flavored like apple or peppermint and are used to introduce a young horse to a bit or teach a horse to take the bit.

Plastic

Plastic is a less common material for bit construction, but made popular by the English "Happy Mouth" series. It is fairly delicate (but holds up well when horses don't chew the bit) and gentle (like rubber).

Aluminum

Aluminum is used fairly frequently on the shanks of bits, but is not as common in mouthpieces due to some controversy as to whether or not it's toxic. Aluminum is said to dry out the mouth. It's main advantage is that it is lightweight, unlike the other materials, but this is a matter of personal preference. It's very soft and can get chewed up easily.

[almost_mozart]

Mouthpieces

Jointed "Snaffle"



Why this mouthpiece is called a "snaffle" is a mystery to me, as snaffle actually refers to an unshanked bit. Regardless, this is a very widespread mouthpiece--perhaps the most common of all. When you pull back on the reins, pressure is applied to the bars of the mouth. It also pulls back on the tongue. Depending on the construction of the bit, the middle joint may hinge inwards in the "nutcracker effect." This may cause a pinching of the tongue, and in extreme cases, the point may reach the roof of the mouth. Despite this, the snaffle mouthpiece is considered pretty mild and can be found with many different styles of shanks. It's especially popular for starting bits.

This mouthpiece is often rounded, smooth, and of medium diameter. In general, the thinner and rougher the mouthpiece, the harsher the bit. Other varieties include the twisted wire:



the extra-thin wire (extremely harsh; can cut the mouth):



the double wire (ditto):



and several squared off, rubber, or extra-wide varieties.

This is a good mouthpiece for breaking, training, and fixing vices, although its exact use depends on the shanks it's mounted on.


Three-piece

The three-piece mouthpiece is similar to the snaffle mouth in that it works off bar pressure and provides no tongue relief. When pressure is applied, the two outside pieces pull into the lip and flex at the joints. The center piece stays flat and lies against the tongue. This is in contrast to the two-piece snaffle mouth, which collapses and shoots upwards in the “nutcracker effect.” For this reason, the three-piece is much less likely to pinch and is considered milder, although it has the same amount of control.

Variations include the dogbone:



the roller (which gives an anxious horse something to play with):



and the lifesaver (pinching is virtually impossible, but the center ring will pull tight across the tongue):



Because it is simple and gentle, the three-piece mouth is also a good starting, breaking, and problem-fixing mouthpiece—once again depending on the shanks it is mounted on.

In the English world, three-piece bits are usually called either French Link or Dr. Bristol, the difference being how the middle joint folds. A French link folds gently over the tongue and lays flat and does not press into the palate, whereas a Dr. Bristol's middle link is turned sideways so that the link does press into the palate and tongue.

French Link:



Dr. Bristol:





Ported Bits and Correction Mouthpieces

The “port” is the little thingy in the center of the mouthpiece that curves upwards toward the roof of the mouth. It may be solid, but is usually open underneath—which provides tongue relief for a broke horse. Generally speaking, the wider the port, the more tongue relief and the milder the bit; the taller the port, the more likely it is to come in contact with the roof of the mouth, which can be severe, although many seasoned horses work off this type of pressure.

A moderate port is often called a “correction mouthpiece” and is only found on shanked bits.



A solid, unbroken ported bit works well on broke horses who know how to neck rein, as it gives them tongue relief and does not interfere with many moving parts. However, most three-piece ported bits do not move in the expected three-piece manner because they are hinged vertically, not horizontally, and do not respond to independent shank movement.





A cathedral bit has a very high, narrow port and is best left for very broke horses and experience trainers.




Chain

The chain is considered a harsh mouthpiece because it conforms to the horse’s mouth and does not give any tongue relief whatsoever. It can also pinch, and rough hands can grate the chain across the lips, potentially cutting them. Chain mouthpieces are often found on gag shanks or solid shanks and are very popular with gaited horses and in the world of rodeo, particularly for ropers and barrel racers. In the right hands, a chain mouthpiece can teach lateral movement and flexion as well as getting a good “whoa.” In the wrong hands (or in the wrong mouth) it can be disastrous.



A variation is the bikechain or “mule bit” mouthpiece. It is usually sawed/serrated on one side, and smooth on the other and reversible for different effects. While I won’t condemn any bit entirely as say it should never be used, I can’t imagine any instance where a rider would need something this harsh and dangerous. It can certainly pinch and cut.




Mullen

The Mullen mouthpiece is smooth, thick, and solid. It may be flat (lots of tongue pressure) or slightly curved (some tongue relief). It is often found on short, solid shanks and advertised as a “colt bit.” It is not harsh at all, but it has very little finesse, so teaching things like collection and lateral movement are extremely difficult. The Mullen mouth is good for teaching “whoa” and getting a young horse used to a shanked bit without scaring him, or as an alternative to the pinching of a snaffle mouthpiece. It may also work on older, broke horses who don’t respond well to other mouthpieces and need tongue pressure.

[ToveroMom]

The full cheek snaffle is a snaffle because the reins do not attach to the sidepieces.

[Range]

Tmom is right, those aren't shanks on that bit. The long cheek pieces keep the bit from sliding through the mouth, especially on young horses.

[horsey-gal]

This is a very interesting/informative thread, glad to have it to read

[paso_lover]

Maybe this will help me instead of asking how to teach and idiot pony to not take the bit and run. We have tried everything under the sun to teach him not too (and he was getting better up till the other day). Out on the trails we use a tom thumb on Tucker and usually he responds and when Kenya is at the show we use the jointed snaffle. Does not respond at all. He simply take it and drags her wherever he wants to go. Any suggestions as to which bit would best be suitable?

[almost_mozart]

Originally Posted by ToveroMom

The full cheek snaffle is a snaffle because the reins do not attach to the sidepieces.

No, I'm just referring to the mouthpiece at this point. That mouthpiece would still be called a "snaffle" mouth even on a gag bit or Tom Thumb--both shanked bits.

[EquineAlberta]

To my knowledge a snaffle only refers to the fact that the reins and cheek peices attach to the same ring (ie no leverge or gag action...or slotted Myler bit) and has nothing at all to do with the amount of joints (or lack of) in a bit.

In the english world, "Three Piece" bits are usually called either French Link or Dr. Bristol. The difference being how the middle joint folds. A French link folds gently over the tongue and lays flat and does not press into the palat, whereas a Dr.Bristol's middle link is turned sideways so that the link does press into the palate and tongue. For example your "dog bone" bit would be considered a Dr.Bristol link in English if it were a snaffle as the link doesn't lay flat on the tongue when the bit is inacted.

I don't see how a "life saver" bit is all that gentle...the ring in the middle will press into the palate and the tongue as the leverage of the shanks is inacted.

Karen

[almost_mozart]

Originally Posted by EquineAlberta

To my knowledge a snaffle only refers to the fact that the reins and cheek peices attach to the same ring (ie no leverge or gag action...or slotted Myler bit) and has nothing at all to do with the amount of joints (or lack of) in a bit.

I agree 100% with you--a snaffle is an unshanked, no-leverage bit. But for some reason, in the Western world, "snaffle" also refers to the single-jointed, two-piece mouth, regardless of the rest of the bit. Hence "Tom Thumb snaffle" and "Argentine snaffle." I fought if for a while, but now I just go with the flow.

I don't see how a "life saver" bit is all that gentle...the ring in the middle will press into the palate and the tongue as the leverage of the shanks is inacted.

I think a lifesaver is considered more gentle than the dogbone or dogbone with roller because there are no joints to pinch the tongue, as you said. Yes, it will press into the tongue, and a French link is probably milder, but I have no knowledge of English bits. I'm going to go ahead and add your information to the original post--it makes sense to me!

[almost_mozart]

Types of Bits

Snaffles

The simplest type of bit, the characteristics of a snaffle are no shanks, no leverage action, and no curb. They work directly off of rein pressure--the same amount of pressure is applied to the mouth as is applied by the hands. Snaffles are often used as beginning bits to introduce a horse to having something in its mouth and respond to different sorts of rein contact. They are generally pretty mild (depending on the mouthpiece). Snaffles are often used with a curb strap that serves no purpose other than to position the bit correctly and keep it from pulling through the mouth.

The different cheeck pieces include O-ring/loose-ring (when you pull right, the right side of the bit tightens against the bars and the bit may pull through the mouth; the mouthpiece is free to rotate around the circumference):



D-ring (the mouthpiece is fixed in place; when you pull right, the right side of the bit tightens against the bars and the outer left side of the bit pulls into the left side off the mouth):



Eggbutt (pretty similar to a D-ring, a little less opposite side pressure and slightly more likely to pull through the mouth):



Half Cheek (applies lots of pressure on the opposite side):



Full Cheek (applies tons of pressure from the opposite side on both top and bottom, giving horses a "push in the right direction"):




Curb Bits

Curb bits differ from snaffles in that they apply leverage pressure in the form of a curb strap or chain. The shanks increase the amount of pressure that is applied to the mouth, magnifying the hands’ action. When the reins are pulled, the bit rotates in the mouth. The mouthpiece engages more fully as more pressure is applied, the curb tightens, and when it has tightened as far as it can go, strong pressure is applied to the mouth. Generally speaking, the longer and straighter the shank, the more the pressure is magnified, and the harsher the bit. A long purchase (the upper part of the shank between the mouthpiece and bit hanger) also increases leverage and severity. A curved shank bit gives some warning in between the time the reins are picked up and the bit engages, white a straight shank bit engages immediately. Mild curb bits are great for teaching collection, flexion, and lateral movement. A short, curved-shank curb with a three-piece or snaffle mouthpiece is good for introducing a young horse to leverage pressure without scaring him after he has graduated from a snaffle. A curb with a solid or correctional mouthpiece is considered “the” bit for broke Western horses who know how to neck-rein—there is no direct reining here, as the fixed shanks do not allow for independent side movement.

In terms of curb construction, the mildest is flat leather, followed by rawhide, double chain, single chain, and finally the severe “power curb.” A tighter curb means the mouthpiece will engage sooner.






Gag Bits

Gag bits (called elevator bits in the English world) seem to have a negative connotation, perhaps because their name conjures up images of a horse spitting and choking on a too-tight mouthpiece. In fact, when used correctly, gag bits can be quite mild. I personally like them (and Wonder/Half-Wonder bits in particular) for teaching collection, flexion, and lateral movement to a green horse moving out of a snaffle. Gag bits are popular in the training pen, barrel racing and in gaited horse communities.

Physically, they are composed of the mouthpiece (often a chain or snaffle mouth), shanks of varying lengths, and a curb. What sets them apart from ordinary curb bits is that the mouthpiece is not fixed in place—it is free to move and slide about. This is the “gag action.” When pressure is applied via the reins, the bit rotates and the mouthpiece slides around the ring. When the curb has tightened as much as it can and/or the mouthpiece reaches the end of its track, increasing pressure is applied from the mouthpiece. This gag action gives the horse plenty of warning from the time the rider picks up the reins to the time harsh pressure is applied. It also allows for independent movement of the shanks, meaning you can “pick up” one side of the horses head without affecting the other—great for lateral movement.






Draw Bits

Draw bits consist of an unshanked bit with two rings through which a rope, cable, or curved piece of metal is run. The reins are attached to the end of this. A piece of rope, cable, or wire (in order of severity) is run behind the ears and attached to the cord running through the bits. When the reins are pulled back, the cord is also pulled, tightening the rope behind the ears (poll pressure) and lifting the bit. The bit slides along the cord until it can go no further. Then mouthpiece pressure is applied.

If the draw bit also has gag action and a rope is run behind the ears, this is a very mild bit and good transition from a snaffle, especially for teaching lateral movement. If the bit is more snaffle-like, has a harsh mouthpiece, or a cable or wire is run behind the ears, this bit can become quite severe. Draw bits work well on soft-mouthed horses, young horses, or those who don’t respond well to curb or noseband pressure.






Combination Bits

Combination bits (sometimes called bitted hackamores) consist of a curb bit (almost always a gag bit) and a noseband made of leather, chain in tubing, rope, rawhide, or bike chain (in order of severity). They work best on seasoned horses who already know their jobs and do well with a little guidance, but do need some help steering and stopping. There’s a lot of action and a lot of different moving parts in a combo bit, so it can scare off a young or inexperienced horse.

When pressure is applied, the action is the same as that of a curb or gag bit, but additional pressure comes from the noseband, which presses down on the face. Adjusted too low, the noseband can damage the nasal bones, but adjusted properly it encourages the horse to rate or sometimes drop its head. Most combo bits aren’t incredibly harsh, because the pressure is distributed across so many different places. However, those with severe nosebands, harsh mouthpieces, or long shanks can be quite brutal. Most horses don’t need all the extra action and control provided by these bits and will only be confused by all the stuff going on.






Lifter Bits

Lifter bits combine a tiny amount of gag action with a long purchase. They’re fairly harsh, particularly when combined with a severe mouthpiece, and are used for encouraging a broke horse to “lift” his nose—lateral movement. Lifter bits are popular with barrel racers who need to get their horse’s nose quickly during a run.




Spade Bits
(thanks, cutter123)

A spade bit looks very severe, and is not for beginner hands, or beginner horses. A spade bit can be a work of art, like this custom made one:



What makes a true spade is the mouthpiece. Notice the straight bar, the high cathedral port, the copper spoon and braces, and the roller, called a cricket. A curb bit that does not have all these elements is not a true spade, and is commonly called a "half breed." This mouthpiece makes the Spade Bit a bit that a horse learns to pick up and carry in his mouth. Although a Spade Bit has a curb strap and therefore leverage, it is not a leverage bit like other curbs. It is a "signal" bit; it is designed to give the horse signals with very subtle hand movements.

True bridle horses go through extensive training, starting in a rawhide bosal hackamore, into a two rein (which is a small bosal worn under a bridle used in conjunction with the bridle and two sets of reins, mecate reins on the bosal, and romal reins on the bridle), and finally into a full bridle (Spade). A horse is thoroughly trained in all the complicated maneuvers he must perform before he ever gets into a Spade Bit. The Spade Bit's purpose is to send the horse very subtle rein signals; the signals from the reins travel to the shank. The movements of the shank equally move the long tapered port. The good bridle horses are said to be "velvet mouthed," and respond smoothly to almost inperceptable rein signals. A Spade Bit is designed to be used with Romal style reins.

This tradition of bits and bitting came from the Californios, descendents of the Spanish conquistadores who settled old California. These men were ranchers and stockmen, and needed highly trained stock horses able to be easily maneuvered with one hand, as the rider needed his other hand to rope. The Spanish riding tradition has its roots in Classical Dressage; the maneuvers one needs to do to have an effective war charger or effectively work cattle are similar.

Notice a Spade Bit has a straight bar instead of a raised port like other leverage bits. This design sits the bit evenly across the tongue. When a signal is given, the horse feels it first on his tongue, which is a fatty type muscle, instead of the bars of his mouth. Therefore even though it looks severe, with preparation, this type of configuration is actually less severe. With a straight bar, a horse can brace his tongue. That is why half breed and grazing style curb bits were designed with a port that allows for "tongue relief." What this means is the pressure is distributed to the ends of the mouthpiece onto the horse's bars. Because there is a raised space in the middle of that style mouthpiece for the horse's tongue, it makes it more difficult for the horse to brace his tongue against the bit. In a Spade with a straight mouthpiece, there is no "tongue relief" but the horse's sensitive bars are spared. By the time a horse is "straight up in the bridle," any tendency to brace his tongue against the bit has already been trained out of him. If a horse is bracy in a Spade Bit, then he is not broke enough to carry it and should be taken back down to a more intermediate stage to work on foundation issues.

The cheek pieces of a true spade and most half breed bits are completely straight. This is designed to keep the horse's head exactly on the vertical. On a half breed or leverage style curb bit, the more the shanks are swept back, the more above the vertical (poked out) the horse carries his nose. You can test this by resting the bit's mouthpiece in your outstretched palm to see how it sits. This is called the bit's "balance." The cheek pieces are designed to compliment the mouthpiece to give a bit its certain balance. This is designed to teach the horse how to carry himself in a balanced manner. When a horse is traveling balanced, no matter the speed, the Spade will feel good and comfortable in his mouth and he will carry it properly. The fancy designs thus serve a purpose. The different styles of cheek pieces can include moons, stars, hearts, or other fancy silver engraved designs. The design pictured is called the Santa Barbara style design. Most traditional designs were named after the region they were favored or where the bitmaker was from.

The Bridle Horse is a horse that goes on a loose rein. With a Spade Bit, the reins are seldom, if ever, pulled tight. The horse can feel the slightest slack being taken out of the reins. Most Romal reins are attached to the Spade Bit with weighted chains, which increase the "feel." If a rider has to pull on the reins, the horse is not ready to be in a Spade. If a rider is not comfortable with loose rein riding, a spade bit is not a good choice.

Most riders will never have an occasion to use a Spade bit. The use of a spade bit requres a great deal of responsibility from a rider. There are some horsemen who do things according to the Traditional Californio methods of horsemanship. Most Cow Horse riders today who compete in National Reined Cow Horse Association events ride and show their older Bridle Horses in half breed style bits. A half breed has cheek pieces like a spade but lacks some of the elements in the mouthpiece, like the long tapered spoon and copper braces. A half breed cowhorse bit does have a cricket (roller).

[ToveroMom]

True but a tom Thumb and an Argentinian snaffle both have the reins attached to the shank-thereby making it a leverage bit-unlike the full cheek snaffle.
Just wanted to avoid confusion for folks who may be new to horses and bitting.

[almost_mozart]

You're right, of course. I think my wording is just a "bit" confusing. Thanks for the clarification.

[ToveroMom]

I was trying so hard to be polite-I mean it is a great thing you are doing here and I really do appreciate it AM

[lopintoo]

Originally Posted by almost_mozart

I think a lifesaver is considered more gentle than the dogbone or dogbone with roller because there are no joints to pinch the tongue, as you said. Yes, it will press into the tongue, and a French link is probably milder, but I have no knowledge of English bits. I'm going to go ahead and add your information to the original post--it makes sense to me!

Actually I have always thought and been told by several trainers that a lifesaver bit is harsher. And in some (AQHA) associations it is illiegal to show in but a dogbone is legal.

[almost_mozart]

Originally Posted by lopintoo

Actually I have always thought and been told by several trainers that a lifesaver bit is harsher. And in some (AQHA) associations it is illiegal to show in but a dogbone is legal.

I changed the "milder" part.

[almost_mozart]

Bit Alternatives

Sidpulls

A sidepull is often used as breaking equipment for a young horse, as it is extremely gentle. It works entirely off of direct rein movement, although a very soft-mouthed broke horse who knows how to neck rein would work fine in it, as well. A sidepull consists of two rings (to which the reins attach), a noseband, and a piece that loops underneath the jaw and holds everything in place. Rein pressure applied to one side pulls the opposite side—hence the name. When the reins are pulled straight back, the noseband and underneath piece apply light pressure. Collection, flexion, and lateral movement are difficult to achieve due to the mildness and simple action. Getting a good “whoa” may also be hard. Sidepulls are generally constructed of rope or rawhide, although chain and cable varieties exist and negate the mild effect. Sidepulls are sometimes combined with snaffle bits.






Hackamores

The word “hackamore” most commonly refers to a piece of equipment consisting of a noseband, varying styles of shanks, and a curb chain. When the reins are pulled back, the noseband puts pressure downward on the nose, the shanks rotate back, and the curb chain is tightened. Once again, longer and straighter shanks usually correspond to a harsher bit, and the construction of nosebands is the same as with the combination bit. Hackamores work well on horses who despise bits or need noseband pressure but not a full combo bit. Depending on the style, the hackamore may be very light or very harsh. It can have a lot of finesse and lateral control, or it can have none whatsoever—all hinging on the shank design. Most hackamores have quite a bit of “whoa” and most don’t have quite as much “pick up” or turn.






Bosals

The original hackamores were made up of a noseband, called a bosal, a headstall part, called a hanger, sometimes, a piece that ties under the chin to help keep the hanger on, called a fiador, and a one piece long rein to be tied, called a mecate. There is no metal or shanks on this piece of equipment. In AQHA classes for Jr. Horses, in the rules where it says they can be ridden in a hackamore, they are referring to this type, not a shanked, curbed hackamore. Reined Cow Horses are also ridden in this type of hackamore when they are young, between their snaffle and two rein stage, eventually going in a full bridle. The old Californio type trainers and hackamore men considered true hackamore riding a high art form. Bosals are often used as starting equipment or in the transition out of a snaffle bit.

[greygirls]

Thank you Almost Mozart for starting a thread on this. I don't think you've gotten to this particular bit yet but it's the one I'm thinking of switching to. Can you tell me anything about it? I think it's called an elevator bit but I don't know.

[almost_mozart]

Greygirls--

You would use that bit with a curb chain, right? If so, then that's the English version of the Western Wonder Bit--which is the first picture under gag bits. It looks like a pretty typical gag to me, meaning it'd have a lot of pick up and turn and a fair amount of whoa, depending on how tight you put the curb chain. From my limited knowledge of English, that would be considered pretty harsh (quite a bit more control than a snaffle), but in the Western world it's a pretty classic, moderate, standard bit. It's got the two-piece snaffle mouth, but if you have light hands I wouldn't worry too much about it pinching or "nutcrackering." You can put the reins on either of the two bottom rings for custom control options, and choose the severity and construction of curb to your liking and needs.