The Bits and Bitting Thread

[DanielleS]

Originally Posted by almost_mozart

I think you might have misread what I said, DanielleS. I said that (stereotypically, of course) English riders DO want to use the gentlest bit possible. This is coming from by biased Western perspective.

No equineablerta said that english riders don't use the gentlest bit. Either way, I don't think anyone is disagreeing on the fact that its best to be kind and gentle to the horses mouth

[DoBeSassy]

This is so informative, thank you so much for taking the time. I was wondering how the perfect bit really worked, but I wasn't about to spend $100+ just to see if it worked.

I have a question about the spade bit, whice deciplines use it? Is it just working cow horse or do cutters etc

[almost_mozart]

Myler Bits







Myler is a brand of bits, not a specific type, which make dozens and dozens of different combinations of mouth and cheekpieces. Some of their designs are common and simple and can be purchased cheaper someplace else, but others are unique to Myler and well worth the money. The most important feature, in my opinion, is that many of their mouthpieces have "Independent Side Movement," meaning that pulling on one shank only affects that side of the mouth, as the barrel of the mouthpiece swivels. Very interesting.

Myler also has incredible customer support--if you have any bitting questions, call or email the owners/inventers--they're always glad to help. I have the fortune of living just a few towns over from Myler headquarters, and I went and personally talked to the Mylers (Ron and Bob, I think) about my horse and my needs. They were very helpful, and sent me on my way with an old used custom model that they used on their personal horses.

I recommend checking out their website for more information.

www.mylerbits.com

[DoBeSassy]

I have a question, on this bit I have linked (not sure if the picture is copyrighted) the shank is long and I know that gives more leverage, but does the half-heart shape on the shank do anything or is it just for decoration?

http://store.reinsman.com/products/silver_cavalry

[almost_mozart]

Originally Posted by DoBeSassy

This is so informative, thank you so much for taking the time. I was wondering how the perfect bit really worked, but I wasn't about to spend $100+ just to see if it worked.

I have a question about the spade bit, whice deciplines use it? Is it just working cow horse or do cutters etc

Cutter123 might answer better than I can, but mostly I think of it as a true vaquero thing--not many people actually use them any more, and they're considered "fine art" and museum pieces. When they are employed, it's probably for cattle work, ranch roping, "out on the range," and sometimes cutting or working cow horse.

[almost_mozart]

Originally Posted by DoBeSassy

I have a question, on this bit I have linked (not sure if the picture is copyrighted) the shank is long and I know that gives more leverage, but does the half-heart shape on the shank do anything or is it just for decoration?

http://store.reinsman.com/products/silver_cavalry

The swept back shank is designed to keep horses from sucking the shank into their mouths and chewing on the bit--or taking control away from you.

[DoBeSassy]

Oh I didn't even think of that, and Slammer used to chew on his shanks all the time so I should have known that.

[cutter123]

Originally Posted by almost_mozart

Cutter123 might answer better than I can, but mostly I think of it as a true vaquero thing--not many people actually use them any more, and they're considered "fine art" and museum pieces. When they are employed, it's probably for cattle work, ranch roping, "out on the range," and sometimes cutting or working cow horse.

The spade bit is mostly used by people who practice the art of classic Californio style horsemanship. Some reined cowhorse competitiors use Spade Bits, but for the most part it is as Almost Mozart said.

Cutters do not use spade bits. A cutting horse works without reins and we do not want a cutting horse focusing on rein signals or his mouth. Cutters for the most part use very simple curbs, like a grazing style bit, or a buster welch bit.
At our barn, we use bits like this a lot : (on finished horses I mean. We start horses in an eggbut snaffle)






When I ride and compete my cowhorse in Bridle horse classes, I use a half breed similar to this. This mouthpiece is sometimes called the "Ronnie Richards" mouthpiece. It has a cricket under the copper covered port.



I school her at home in this:


As for someone thinking the Spade bit looks "mean" or something, that is a commonly held belief of those who are ignorant of the true purpose of the bit, how it works, or the horsemanship involved in putting a horse "straight up in the bridle." To put something like this in a backyard trained horse's mouth WOULD be mean, because most likely the rider would not have the finesse to handle this type of bit properly. Done correctly, however, a Spade bit horse can be the lightest, most responsive horse there is.

I am sure glad you made this thread, Almost Mozart! You are doing an excellent job describing the function of these bits. I did not know too much about combo bits and elevator bits, etc, and feel grateful for your thorough, unbiased information. Thanks again

[almost_mozart]

Easy Stop



The Easy Stop is so named because it has the power to really rate a horse and enhance his brakes. It is rarely used in competition (with the exception of barrel racing, where it is sometimes seen) but is common in the training pen. It is one-of-a-kind type of hackamore, which puts pressure between the jawbones. The reins are attached to the odd-looking shanks. Pulling back applies pressure underneath the jaw. This is a very sensitive area, so horses are very responsive to the Easy Stop. They will back off of it quickly, so it can (in fact, MUST) be ridden with very soft hands so as not to cause the horse pain or even damage the nerves. Once a horse figures out what is going on, he will respond to even the lightest touch of the reins. I classify this as a very severe hackamore. A heavy-handed rider or a green horse would not match with the Easy Stop at all….the horse could easily get scared and rear as a result of it’s unique action.

The Easy Stop has tons of "whoa," but almost no turn. A horse must be well schooled in neck-reining, or respond to a sidepull-type action, in order to use this hackamore.

[almost_mozart]

Rutledge Roper



Sometimes called a "Cut-Tongue Bit" because it works well on horses who have previously injured their tongues and don't respond well to other bits as a result, the Rutledge Roper is a unique take on the shanked bit. It looks more severe than it is, but this is still a relatively heavy bit that should only be used on experienced, broke horses. The shanks move independently, meaning that rein-tightening on one side picks up the shank for that side, enacting the curb more to that side. The broad, flat mouthpiece puts lies on top of the tongue over a wide area and works off of different pressure points than any other bit. The curb is the first to engage when pressure is applied and the shanks swing back. When it has tightened as far as it can go, the mouthpiece is rolled back onto the tongue. For this reason, the curb should be kept relatively tight to prevent the mouthpiece reaching the vertical and jabbing the thin edge into the lips and tongue.

It serves to put a good rate on a horse. Its design also keeps a horse's head straight and prevents it from over-flexing.

As its name suggests, the Rutledge Roper is used most often by ropers who need a quick, straight stop, or by barrel racers riding extra-bendy horses or those who need help rating.

[almost_mozart]

The $5 Grazing Curb



This is the bit that comes free with many cheap bridle sets, or can be purchased on its own for somewhere around $5--which, quite frankly, is about $4 more than it's worth. Sometimes it's made out of stainless steel, but more often it's plated with some strange nickel alloy, which chips and comes off leaving rough edges after everyday use.

This isn't really that harsh of a bit, although you can get quite a bit of leverage between the shanks and curb. The problem is that it's totally unbalanced for a horse's mouth. It just doesn't sit right. Pulling on one rein tilts the bit awkwardly and pulls it through the mouth and into the tongue as well as activating curb pressure. The horse is confused, so he tosses his head and gaps his mouth--at least, this is the typical response. A well-broke horse who knows how to neck-rein will tolerate this type of bit, especially if the rider stays out of his face. Still, nine times out of ten, it's better to just get a different bit. You're horse will be happier, and you'll get a better response.

[almost_mozart]

Hmmmm....well, I've pretty much run out of things to post for the moment, but feel free to make requests or ask questions, if you have them.

[almost_mozart]

Pelhams







A Pelham is a curb bit with a specific type of shanks, as seen in the pictures above. It is your typical curb, with moderate shanks (and hence moderate leverage action) and would be rather unspectacular--except it can be used in four different ways.

Attaching the reins only to the top ring gives you a snaffle bit, as the shanks are not employed in any way. Attaching the reins only to the bottom rings gives a normal curb bit. Attaching two sets of reins (one to the top ring, and one to the bottom) allows you to adjust how much direct (snaffle) pressure is applied as well as how much collection (curb) pressure is applied. This gives a unique feel and is custom fit to the rider's needs. Attaching Pelham "roundings" to the bit and putting the reins on these splits the bit's action between that of a curb and that of a snaffle.

The tiny center ring on the shanks may be used to tie the sides of the bit together to increase stability and prevent the shanks from flipping up, or it may be ignored.

[sundancer maiden]

This concerns size. I took a straight stick to measure my ponys mouth, it was 41/2 inches. Can I use a 43/4" or 5" bit?

[almost_mozart]

Originally Posted by sundancer maiden

This concerns size. I took a straight stick to measure my ponys mouth, it was 41/2 inches. Can I use a 43/4" or 5" bit?

It's best to have the proper size, but much better too big than too small. I bet you'd be just fine with either, as long as they aren't hanging ridiculously far outside his mouth.

[almost_mozart]

Kimberwicks





The Kimberwick is another type of English bit that can be used in two ways. Attaching the reins to the top slot, sans curb chain, turns the bit into a snaffle. Attaching the reins to the bottom ring and using a curb gives you a short-shanked curb bit with mild leverage action.

There seems to be some controversy in the English world as to whether or not Kimberwicks are harsh bits. Yes, they are shanked bits, meaning that a Kimberwick will be stronger than a snaffle with the same mouthpiece. But in the general scheme of things, Kimberwicks are still on the mild side of the bit spectrum, as their shanks are quite short and they don't magnify pressure all that much.

[almost_mozart]

The Junior Cowhorse





The Junior Cowhorse is a moderate gag bit that is popular for the transition between a snaffle and a curb bit in a young horse. The two-piece jointed snaffle mouth, three-piece dogbone, and chain are the most common mouthpieces, but there are many other varieties. When used with a leather curb adjusted loosely, it is a very forgiving bit as it gives a signal to the mouth before fully engaging and putting pressure under the chin.

Everything about this bit is in moderation--the shanks are off a medium length, they are slightly curved, and there is only a little curb action. This means that the Junior Cowhorse isn't a particularly harsh bit compared with some others on the market. It also makes it a good transition bit into a gag, draw, shanked, or curb bit.

If you are using this bit as a transition from a snaffle, it is best to start with a leather curb strap and the same mouthpiece your horse is already used to. However, this bit is also used with great success on broke, finished horses as it has a lot of lift and keeps them light. Like many gag bits, it's great for "pick up" and lateral movement, and is popular with trainers, ropers, and other speed event folks.

[David]

Mozart I didn't see any mention of poll pressure on your curb bits. I have always been told, and found to be true, that the more purchase a curb bit has the more poll pressure it will apply. Purchase refers to the length of the side piece between where the bridle attaches and where the mouth piece is attached. The reason that curbs work better for stopping a horse than a snaffle is because when the curb strap is engaged it pull the head down by putting poll pressure on the horse then it pulls on the bars of the mouth to stop the horse.

Now I could be completely wrong on this but I do know that you can buy curbs with different amounts of purchase and I know that if you get one with a lot of purchase on a horse that's not used to it, they will normally lower their head then stop when the bit is engaged.

Anyone out there please feel free to correct me. ( I posted this because I want more info and opinions on what I have been told)

[almost_mozart]

That's quite true, David. This is especially true with gag bits, but any curb bit with a long purchase will exert pressure on the poll. I only mentioned this in the draw bits section, because those bits are specifically designed to put pressure behind the ears. The rest was just an oversight on my part.

[David]

Ok thanks, I think you are doing a great job with this thread by the way. I have been riding horses my whole life and I have learned a lot about different bits on this thread.