Tips for Dealing with Pet Emergencies

[Lady_MCSE]

Three years ago, I attended a one-day clinic put at the local community college. It was led by a veterinarian, and the topic was, "Animal Emergencies." I had not yet bought my first horse, and attended it specifically because it SAID it would talk about horses.

Well, the guy never even mentioned the word horse once during the four hour class . . . it was all cats and dogs. But nonetheless, I learned a lot.

I'm posting the notes I took in the class here.

THIS IS NOT A SUBSTITUTE for proper medical care, and I'm sure there will be vets and vet techs and others more knowledgeable than I who will have their own comments about the information contained here. But I just had an emergency with my cat, and felt like reading through it to refresh my memory.

Cheers!

PS: I'm putting this in the "Other Animals" section because, well, it really does talk about cats and dogs both, and kind of talk about all animals in general.

[Lady_MCSE]

Miscellaneous notes from the class:

• Animal Emergency Center, Phone Numbers
  • Find your nearest animal emergency center.
  • Make a trip to the center from home so you have an idea how long it takes to get there. In a crisis, you should call in advance, and let them know you’re on the way.
  • Phone Numbers to post at home and program into your cell phone:
    • Your regular veterinarian’s number.
    • Your nearest animal emergency center.
    • ASPCA’s Animal Poison Control: (888) 426-4435 (there will be a $50 fee they will ask to charge to your credit card)
• General Emergency Response
  • Don’t ever treat any wild animal. It’s possible to get diseases from them. They are unpredictable, especially when injured.
  • Shock symptoms include pale gums, unfocussed eyes
  • When dealing with an animal you don’t know (domesticated), and it semi-conscious and in shock, muzzle it immediately.
  • Immobilize the animal as much as possible, either by strapping to a board, putting in a box, wrapping in a blanket, etc.
  • If unconscious, do NOT attempt to administer any liquids.
  • If unconscious, do NOT use a muzzle.
  • After any trauma, whether or not you sought veterinary care, watch the urine and stool for signs of blood. Any blood would indicate internal injury.
  • You should post a sign for firefighters on your window or door window with information about the number of pets located inside the building.
• Animal vs. Car
  • Your own safety is your #1 priority. Pull over only if it is safe to do so.
  • When attending to an animal by the side of the road, be very cautious that the animal doesn’t get up and rush back into traffic. More importantly, if it does, don’t follow it.
  • Call your Emergency Center while on the way to it – they may be able to prepare ahead of time and meet you at the door.
• Vomiting & Diarrhea
  • If you need to make a dog vomit because of something it ate, you can use 3% Hydrogen Peroxide mixed with water, 1:1 ratio. Give at 10CC’s per 40lbs.
  • Once an animal is vomiting, hold it up by its hind quarters, to encourage the vomit down and out, not to back up into the windpipe.
  • When there is blood present in the vomit, or if vomit is accompanied by diarrhea, or there is a fever present, this is now an emergency situation, seek help immediately.
  • Diarrhea can be treated with a bland diet of boiled chicken and rice
• Choking
  • Clear the airway (be careful not to get bitten!)
  • Lift the hind legs
  • Modified Heimlich Maneuver – in animals, it is more of a jerking lift. Scoop your arm or hand under the hind legs and give a very quick lift & jerk. Beware of the spine though, not too hard.
• Wounds
  • A wound that is oozing indicates a vein, one that’s spurting is an artery. Any wound should be stitched within 6 hours.
  • If there is damage to a limb higher up, start by wrapping the wound, but continue all the way down to the tip of the limb (if possible). This will prevent swelling.
  • A tourniquet should be avoided unless you’re pretty sure the limb is going to be amputated (or has been already). You want to staunch blood-flow on an intact limb, but not cut circulation entirely.
  • Styptic Pencil or Powder is great for very small very shallow wounds. Should never be used on gaping wounds, or anything requiring stitches. (Will increase blood flow!)
• Administering CPR
  • Never administer to a conscious animal or a breathing animal
  • Put the animal on its right side
  • Technique is similar to a baby; will be single-handed, 1-4 fingers, not full palm
  • 1-inch depression of the chest (varies depending on size of animal)
  • Blow, 5 Compressions, Blow, 5 Compressions, etc.
  • Check for the heartbeat right behind the elbow on the chest.
  • Studies show only 7% success rate for CPR-administered cases.
• Heat Stroke
  • Avoid it with lots of water and limited exercise.
  • Cool with water both internal and external, do not use ice!
  • Aiming for 104 degrees, take temp every 5 minutes
  • Heat Stroke may also cause an enzyme imbalance, resulting in death 3-5 days after the actual heat stroke event.
• Burns
  • Animals have extremely thin skin. Even a first degree burn will cause a blister.
  • Aloevera plant is a good treatment.
  • If you suspect electrical burn (from chewing a cord), seek veterinary assistance immediately. Very possible that the heart may stop at a later time.
  • Avoid using petroleum jelly, butter, or other heavy substance.
• Tips for Preventing Emergencies
  • Select your breed carefully (he gave a long list of breeds that are predisposed to certain forms of diseases, such as hip dysplasia in dogs)
  • Keep pets indoors. (Interactions with other animals and humans invite disease and injury.)
  • Brush teeth regularly!! The dental chews may help, but tooth brushing is far more effective.
• Cats and Dogs Both
  • When administering a pill to a cat or dog, be sure to wash it down with water afterwards. Studies show that pills tend to get stuck in the esophagus, and depending on the medicine, can erode the esophagus.
  • If you have your pet microchipped, it’s a good idea to have the veterinarian check for the microchip each year. They are known to migrate, and if they migrate into a vein, they can actually work their way to the heart. Also, there was one vendor who has become kind of like the “Beta” of VCR’s, and their chips are no longer recognized by most vets\shelters.
• Cats
  • Acidifying Diets – it was believed that acidifying diets helped keep Feline Urinary Tract Disease in check. However, studies now show that long-term acidifying diets cause damage to kidneys.
  • Renal Disease – there is a brand new test out (only about a year) that can test for Renal Disease, and assist with catching and treating it early.
  • Heartworm - In Cats, extremely difficult to diagnose. Unfortunately the symptoms only appear when it’s pretty advanced, appears like pneumonia, then heart failure.
  • Urinary Blockages – very common in male cats. Symptoms include increased licking of genital area, frequent squatting with no production. Must be treated within 24 hrs!
  • Onion is extremely toxic to cats
  • Cats don’t have cavities. However, the root of the tooth may simply rot away.
• Dogs
  • Pigs Ears are notorious for salmonella
  • Rawhides of all kinds can cause serious damage to teeth and gums.
  • Lyme Disease Vaccination – has been available for about 3 years, shown to be about 85% effective. It is NOT perfect!
  • Heartworm - it’s possible to test for adult heartworms, not larvae. But the prevention medicines only kill the larvae, not adults.
  • Lilies are very toxic to dogs
  • Grapes & raisins cause kidney damage in dogs
  • Chocolate is toxic in large doses
  • GasX is harmless, useful, and works, for dogs

[BarnBum]

Thanks for the info.

[Lady_MCSE]

He also gave us a listing of things he recommends and does not recommend for an "animal emergency kit" to be kept at the house or carried in the car. Obviously you could spend a fortune outfitting yourself as a mobile ambulance with this complete list . . . but if you're just looking for some ideas for what's good to have on hand and what's not, here it is. I have an emergency kit that I keep in the vehicle I drive out to the barn most often. It's only got about 1/4 of the things on this list, but better than nothing if I ever need it.

Animal Emergency Kit

• Pen
• Pad of Paper
• Phone #’s of regular vet, emergency clinic, and poison control center (see below)
• Latex or Polyvinyl gloves
• Muzzle or makeshift muzzle
• Skin & Wound Care Cleanser
• Bandage material – “Vet Wrap” is specially designed for furry critters, sticks to itself but not fur.
• Gauze sponges
• 2-inch wide gauze roll
• Thermometer (pediatric rectal)
• Needleless syringe (for administering liquids orally). Turkey Baster is a possible substitute.
• Duct Tape (good for tying an animal down to a board if severely injured)
• Ear Cleaner
• Nolvasan (a brand-name wound care salve)
• Toxiban (activated charcoal)
• Bulb syringes (for flushing wounds)
• Wound powder
• Fly repellent
• Bitter orange to keep the critter from chewing at a bandage
• Eye irrigation solution (sterile water)
• Pepcid AC for upset stomach
• Towel and\or Blanket
• An old belt or leather strap that could be used for either a tourniquet or a muzzle.
• A tube or something about an inch in diameter that can be used to wedge a mouth open. The handle-end of a screwdriver works well.
• Tweezers
• KY Jelly
• Triple-antibiotic ointment
• Wet-ones towelettes or Purell packets
• Safety pins
• Ziploc Baggies (for collecting urine or stool samples)
• Flashlight
• Small scissors
• Hydrogen Peroxide
• Isopropyl Acohol
• Sterile Saline Eye Wash
• Styptic Pencil or Powder
• Needlenose pliers

NO-NO’s

• Tincture of iodine
• Mineral oil
• Tylenol
• Petroleum products such as Vaseline