*NEW* Health & Nutrition- Frequenty Asked Questions

muttduck · 02-24-2007, 11:37 AM

Hello, Horsetopians!!
We are going to test a new feature here in Health and Nutrition.
It is an FAQ list of the Frequently Asked Health and Nutrition Questions.

Should this feature become popular, we may slowly add FAQ's for each forum.

If you have thoughts or opinions about this new feature, please PM them to myself or Annie.

Thank you,
muttduck

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Click on the question below, and it will take you to the reply that has a direct answer to the question, or links that will help you answer your question. (For Dial Up users, feel free to scroll down the replies to get the answer to your question, they are in the same order as the questions.)

This FAQ is not meant to prohibit educational discussions or debates in the forum. It is meant to be a simple reference tool to help quickly find answers to basic questions.

Disclaimer: The questions and answers posted in these forums are for educational purposes only. The answers given will be general and every case is different. As a result, you should always consult with your own veterinarian or specialist when making decisions about your horse's care.

Horsetopia.com and our members will not be held liable for any information posted in these forums. This information is not to be used to make important decisions about the care of your horse or replace a certified veterinarian's opinion.

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WHAT IS THE RECOMMENDED VACCINATION SCHEDULE?

WHAT IS THE RECOMMENDATION FOR ROTATING WORMERS? HOW DO YOU ROTATE WORMERS?

HOW TALL WILL MY FOAL GET?

HOW DO I FEED ALFALFA CUBES OR OTHER FIBER/HAY SUPPLEMENTS?

HOW DO I CLEAN MY GELDING'S/STALLION'S SHEATH?

WHAT ARE THE VITAL SIGNS OF AN ADULT HORSE?

WHAT SHOULD I HAVE IN MY EMERGENCY FIRST AID KIT?

WHY IS MY HORSE UNDERWEIGHT? WHY WON'T MY HORSE GAIN WEIGHT?

DOES MY HORSE NEED A BLANKET? WHEN SHOULD YOU BLANKET A HORSE?

HOW DO I ADD MUSCLE TONE TO MY HORSE?

HOW DO I SCORE MY HORSE'S BODY CONDITION? WHAT SCORE IS IDEAL FOR MY DISCIPLINE?

HOW DO I FEED MY NEW HORSE WHEN I DON'T KNOW WHAT IT ATE BEFORE? HOW DO I FEED MY RESCUE?

HOW DO I WEIGH MY HORSE?

muttduck · 02-24-2007, 04:52 PM

WHAT IS THE RECOMMENDED VACCINATION SCHEDULE?

Vaccination basics:

The following links are to two seperate PDF files (dial uppers, it takes a little while to open). These links are directly from the AAEP, and are their current recommendations. The PDF files open to a convenient chart format, making it easy to see what is due when.

Adults over 1 = http://www.aaep.org/images/files/Adu...revised108.pdf

Foals up to 1 = http://www.aaep.org/images/files/Foa...onfinal108.pdf

muttduck · 02-24-2007, 04:53 PM

WHAT IS THE RECOMMENDATION FOR ROTATING WORMERS? HOW DO YOU ROTATE WORMERS?

Wormer rotation basics:

Products used to rid your horse of internal parasites vary widely by manufacturer.
It is often recommended to 'rotate' wormers each time you use one, so that your horse receives the most effect from the product.

When rotating, you should make sure that the wormer you are going to use does not have the same active ingredient as the wormer you last used.
Just changing product names will not mean you are rotating wormers.

IMPORTANT NOTE: Moxidectin is not recommended for foals, ponies, or minis, as it is too easily overdosed!!!

The following is a generic schedule of rotation, with product names and their active ingredients listed.
Because parasites vary from location to location, and because some parasites are showing resistence to certain wormers, you should consult your veterinarian to be sure that you are following a rotation that is ideal for your location and situation.

January/February......... Anthelcide EQ Paste (oxibendazole)
........................................Panacur Paste (fenbendazole)
........................................Safe-Guard Paste (fenbendazole)

March/April....................ComboCare (2% moxidectin & 12.5% praziquantel)
........................................Equell Paste (1.87% ivermectin)
........................................EquiMax Paste (1.87% ivermectin & 14.03% praziquantel)
........................................Equimectrin Paste (1.87% ivermectin)
........................................Horse Health Ivermectin Paste (1.87% ivermectin)
........................................IverCare Paste (1.87% ivermectin)
........................................Quest Gel (moxidectin)
........................................Rotectin 1.87% Paste (1.87% ivermectin)
........................................Zimecterin Paste (1.87% ivermectin)
........................................Zimecterin Gold Paste (1.55% ivermectin & 7.75% praziquantel)

May/June........................Equi-Cide Paste (pyrantel pamoate)
........................................Rotectin P Paste (pyrantel pamoate)
........................................Strongid Paste (pyrantel pamoate)
........................................Strongylecare Paste (pyrantel pamoate)
........................................TapeCare Plus Paste (pyrantel pamoate)

July/August................... Anthelcide EQ Paste (oxibendazole)
........................................Panacur Paste (fenbendazole)
........................................Safe-Guard Paste (fenbendazole)

September/October.......ComboCare (2% moxidectin & 12.5% praziquantel)
........................................Equell Paste (1.87% ivermectin)
........................................EquiMax Paste (1.87% ivermectin & 14.03% praziquantel)
........................................Equimectrin Paste (1.87% ivermectin)
........................................Horse Health Ivermectin Paste (1.87% ivermectin)
........................................IverCare Paste (1.87% ivermectin)
........................................Quest Gel (moxidectin)
........................................Rotectin 1.87% Paste (1.87% ivermectin)
........................................Zimecterin Paste (1.87% ivermectin)
........................................Zimecterin Gold Paste (1.55% ivermectin & 7.75% praziquantel)

November/December.....Equi-Cide Paste (pyrantel pamoate)
........................................Rotectin P Paste (pyrantel pamoate)
........................................Strongid Paste (pyrantel pamoate)
........................................Strongylecare Paste (pyrantel pamoate)
........................................TapeCare Plus Paste (pyrantel pamoate)

muttduck · 02-24-2007, 04:54 PM

HOW TALL WILL MY FOAL GET?

How to estimate mature size, using calculations and the "string test":

http://forum.horsetopia.com/viewtopic.php?p=208339

String test A:
Measuring the coronet band to the center of the knee on the foreleg.
If it reads 12 3/4 inches, she would get to be 12 3/4 hands tall.
14 1/2 inches = 14 1/2 hands
And so on...

String test B:
You measure the horse from the point of the ergot to the point of the elbow.

You take that measurement and (keeping your hand on the elbow) circle your other hand up (like a compass) extending UP beyond the withers.

How high it reaches is how tall the horse will be, except:
If the horse is still a weanling, add 2 inches to that height,
and if it's a yearling add one inch.

Method C:
To estimate height use a calculator, and the formula is: birth height in inches divided by .6356, (this would be divided by 4 to get the hands.)

Convert the decimals as follows:
__.00 = 0/4 = __:0hh
__.25 = 1/4 = __:1hh
__.50 = 1/2 = __:2hh
__.75 = 3/4 = __:3hh

muttduck · 02-24-2007, 04:54 PM

muttduck · 02-24-2007, 04:55 PM

HOW DO I CLEAN MY GELDING'S/STALLION'S SHEATH?

Sheath Cleaning Basics:

http://forum.horsetopia.com/viewtopic.php?t=728

Actually doing the deed (thanks to Ostateaggie for these detailed instructions!)

Quote:

The BEST time to do this is when you are having the horses teeth floated, he will be sedated, so he shouldn't fight you.

Always stand as far forward as you can, this will help you keep from being kicked!

Do your self a favor and wear gloves! The smegma can get really nasty!

Get a bucket of clean warm water and your cleaner of choice, there are some nice cleaners available, I think I used something called "Excalibur" the other day. You will also need wash rags or sponges of some sort.

**If you have never done this before it is best to have your vet show you first so you do not do any damage to him and he does not hurt you**

Exteriorize the penis by reaching up into the prepuce and GENTLY grasping the glands penis (the big part on the end) and GENTLY pulling it out. Once you have it out, you want to check him for a "bean." This is a buildup of debris and secretions (smegma) forms hard bean shaped balls in the Urethral Diverticulum. Take your finger and run it into the opening next to the urethra, you will find a pocket, that is the diverticulm, it is quite large so feel around and be sure you get everything out!

Once he is de-beaned, use your cleaner and clean the penis and up inside the sheath, this can take some doing, they can get really nasty!

Once he is clean, be sure if your product is a soap that you rinse, rinse and rinse some more!! Check your product, the stuff I used does not have to be rinsed, it is a tea tree oil base, not a soap.

Between these thorough cleanings, you can help keep him clean by using the hose and a rag... I do this after riding when I am bathing him, in the summer the hose is not too cold for him.

A little more humorous version (thanks to ToveroMom for posting this!)

Quote:

"MR HAND"
[please do not reprint without including the author please-she deserves her attribution-thanks]
Step 1) Check to make sure there are no prospective boyfriends, elderly neighbors, or Brownie troops with a line of sight to the proceedings. Though of course they're probably going to show up unexpectedly ANYWAY once you're in the middle of things. Prepare a good explanation <vbg>

2) Trim your fingernails short. Assemble horse, hose, and your sense of humor (plus, ideally, Excalibur cleanser and perhaps thin rubber gloves).

3) Use hose (or damp sponge) to get the sheath and its inhabitant wet. Uh, that is, do this in a *civilized* fashion with due warning to the horse; he is apt to take offense if an icy-cold hose blasts unexpectedly into his personal regions

4) Now introduce your horse to Mr Hand <g>. What I find safest is to stand facing the horse's head, with my shoulder and hip snugly against the horse's thigh and hip so that if he makes any
suspicious move such as raising his leg, I can feel it right away and am in any case pressed so close that all he can do is shove, not really kick. The horse should be held by an assistant or by
your free hand, NOT tied fast to a post or to cross ties. He may shift around a good bit if he's not happy with Mr. Hand's antics, but don't be put off by that; as long as you are patient and gradual, and stick close to his side, he'll get over it.

Remember that it would be most unladylike of you to simply make a direct grab for your horse's Part. Give the horse a clue about what's on the program. Rest your hand against his belly, and then
slide it back till you are entering The Home of the Actual Private Part. When you reach this first region of your destination, lube him up good with Excalibur or whatever you're using.

If the outer part of his sheath is really grungy you will feel little clods and nubblies of smegma peeling off as you grope around in there. Patiently and gently expedite their removal.

5) Thus far, you have probably only been in the outer part of the sheath. The Part Itself, you'll have noticed, is strangely absent. That's because it has retired shyly to its inner chambers. Roll up them that sleeves and follow in after it

6) As you and Mr. Hand wend your way deeper into the sheath, you will encounter what feels like a small portal that opens up into a chamber beyond. Being attentive to your horse's reaction,
invite yourself in <vbg>. You are now in the inner sanctum of The Actual Private Part. It's hiding in there towards the back, trying to pretend it isn't there. Say hi and wave to it <vbg>. No, really, work your finger back and forth around the sides of it. If the horse won't drop, this is your only shot at removing whatever dried smegma is clinging to the surface of the Part itself. So, gently explore around it, pulling out whatever crusty topsoil you find there. Use more water and more Excalibur if necessary to loosen attached gunk.

7) When Mr Hand and the Actual Private Part have gotten to know each other pretty well, and the Part feels squeaky clean all around, there remains only one task: checking for, and removing,
the bean. The bean is a pale, kidney shaped accumulation of smegma in a small pouch just inside the urethra. Not all horses accumulate a bean, but IME the majority do, even if they have no
visible external smegma.

So: the equine urethra is fairly large diameter, and indeed will permit you to very gently insinuate one of your slimmer fingers inside the urethral opening. Do so, and explore upwards for what will feel like a lump or "pea" buried no more than, I dunno, perhaps 3/4" in from the opening. If you do encounter a bean, gently and sympathetically persuade it out with your finger. This may require a little patience from BOTH Mr Hand AND the horse, but the horse will be happier and healthier once it's accomplished. In the rare event that the bean is too enormous for your finger to coax out, you might try what I did (in desperation) last month on the orange horse: Wrap thumb and index finger around the end of the Part and squeeze firmly to extrude the bean. Much to my surprise it worked and orange horse did NOT kill me for doing it and he does not seem to have suffered any permanant damage as a result ;-> I have never in my life seen another bean that enormous, though.

8) Now all that's left to do is make a graceful exit and rinse the area very thoroughly in apology for the liberties you've taken <vbg>. A hose will be MUCH easier to use here than just a sponge and bucket, IME. Make sure to direct the water into the Part's inner retreat too, not merely the outer part of the sheath. This may require you to enfold the end of the hose in your hand and guide it up there personally.

9) Ta-da, you are done! Say, "Good horsie" and feed him lots of carrots. Watch him make funny faces at the way your hands smell. Hmm. Well, perhaps there is ONE more step...

10) The only thing I know of that is at all effective in removing the lovely fragrance of smegma from your hands (fingernails arms elbows and wherever else it's gotten) is Excalibur. Even then, if
you didn't use gloves you may find you've got an unusual personal perfume for a while. So, word to the wise, do NOT clean your horse's sheath just before an important job interview or first
date

and of course, there is that one FINAL step...

11) Figure out how to explain all this to your mother (or the kid from next door, or the meter reader, or whoever else you've just realized has been standing in the barn doorway speechlessly
watching the entire process. <vbg>)

Now, go thou forth and clean that Part

"Copyright 1998 Patricia Harris"

Some of the helpful tips members have given:

Quote:

*Keep your hand really close to his belly, they tend to cow kick. - Brandy

*There are sheath cleaning solutions on the market, your local feed store probably carries an assortment. You can use a bucket of warm water and the solution, but you still have to get in there... Make sure that you RINSE, RINSE, and rinse some more!! That is the most important part other than being gentle.. If your horse is still a baby, getting them usto it early really helps alot... - Rocking Horse

*Do it after riding or working the horse out. They are tired and more relaxed and drop by them selves. I like to use a sock so its easier to hang on to. - Stormy

*If your boys haven't been cleaned in a long time, you may want to "presoak" them! I have only done this with baby oil, but I am not sure if there is something better to use. It works particularly good on the boys that have the scaled of dead skin still clinging to them.
Of course you have to keep them away from dust and dirt or the oil will just attract more dirt, but "soaking" them for a few hours to overnight can really make it easier to clean and less painful for the horse.
Other important tip: take off your rings, make sure your nails are clipped, and perhaps even wear rubber gloves! You don't want to hurt him by accident! - Equine Alberta

*While cleaning out an old basket of magazines, I found an unopened Equus. In the consultants section there was a question about sheath cleaning.
The veterinarian who replied (Matthew MacKay Smith, DVM) said that soap, water and scrubbing are unnecessary and can irritate the tissues, causing even more smegma. He suggests filling a bulb syringe with baby oil, inserting the tip in the sheath up to the bulb, squirting in the baby oil, and wiping off any excess that drips out. He says that for horses who drop all the way, this is all you need to do, as the smegma will fall off on its own when they drop. For horses that only extend the penis a few inches, you will have to wipe off the opening for a few days after the oiling. - Orchid

* We like KY jelly. It works really well. does not promote bacterial growth like vegetable oil might and comes in a variety of different products. Our horses particularily like the "warming" variety. It is also safe to apply the day before for horses that haven't been done for a while and if your horse is not keen to have the hose shoved up there, it's a good technique to train and then a quick rinse with warm water in a squirt bottle, like a clean empty dish soap bottle. - Red

*Just remember while cleaning the sheath is a good thing-it ain't worth getting killed over. If the horse is highly resistant or is cowkicking-it can be dealt with very easily after tranqing by the vet. - ToveroMom

*BY THE WAY, you mare owners do know to clean between the teats, right??? The gunk up in between there is easy to pick off... It is a bit greasy(?) feeling after the big chunks are picked off, so then is when a wash cloth with soapy water would come in handy. - muttduck

muttduck · 02-24-2007, 05:54 PM

WHAT ARE THE VITAL SIGNS OF AN ADULT HORSE?

Normal Vital Signs of the Adult Horse:

Rectal Temperature - 100.5ÂºF (37-38ÂºC)
(Note: So you don't lose the thermometer in your horse, attach a piece of string to the handle end along with an alligator clip. When the thermometer is inserted, fasten the alligator clip to tail hairs, thus securing it! Insert the thermometer gently along the rectal wall to get the temperature of the horse, not its manure.)
**foals & yearlings can have normal temperatures up to 102 degrees.
**normal temperatures may run slightly higher in hot, humid weather; if horse is in direct sunlight or has just been exercised.

Pulse - 32-44 beats per minute
(The pulse can be taken from an area under the jaw, from beneath the tail at its bone, or from an area on the side of the horse's foot. Since most horses will not stand still enough to count heartbeats for a full minute, count for 15 seconds and multiply by four.)
young horses have a faster heart rate
**foals 2-4 weeks old = 70 to 90 beats per minute
**foals 6 to 12 months old = 45 to 60 beats per minute
**horses 2 to 3 years old = 40 to 50 beats per minute

Respiration - 12-20 breaths per minute
(Watch or feel your horse's ribcage/belly for one minute. Be sure to count 1 inhale and 1 exhale as one breath (not as two). If you are having difficulty seeing the ribcage move, try watching the horse's nostrils or place your hand in front of the nostrils to feel the horse exhale, keep in mind that the respiration rate should NEVER exceed the pulse rate.)

Gut Sounds - Gut sounds should always be present.
(Press your ear up against your horse's barrel just behind his last rib. If you hear gurgling noises, he's fine. Be sure to check gut sounds from both sides. The absence of gut sounds is more indicative of a problem than excessive gut sounds. Usually, an absence of gut sounds indicates colic. If you don't hear any sounds, contact your veterinarian.)

Capillary Refill Time - less than 2 seconds
(Capillary Refill Time (CRT) is the time it takes for blood to return to blanched tissues in the gums. This is an indicator of blood circulation. Normal refill time is 1 to 2 seconds. Lift your horse's upper lip up and firmly press your thumb against his gums for 2 seconds to create a white mark. This white mark should return to the normal pink colour within 1-2 seconds after releasing the pressure.)

Mucous Membranes - pale pink
(The mucous membranes are the lining of a horse's eyelids, his gums and the inside of his nostrils. The colour of the mucous membranes, are another indicator of blood circulation. A healthy horse's gums are slightly paler than a human. If a horse's gums are very pale, bright red, greyish blue or bright yellow, call a veterinarian immediately.)

Dehydration - Skin Elasticity : less than 1 second
(Check by pinching skin and seeing how long it takes to return to normal. Pinch the skin on your horse's neck. If the skin flattens back into place in less than 1 second when you let go, the horse is fine. If it doesn't, it means he isn't drinking enough water and is dehydrated.)

Hoof Temperature: Luke Warm

muttduck · 02-24-2007, 06:16 PM

WHAT SHOULD I HAVE IN MY EMERGENCY FIRST AID KIT?

Suggested First Aid Materials to Keep On Hand:

Thermometer on a string (for Rectal Temperature)

Stethoscope (To listen to breathing or for gut sounds)

Watch (to time breathing or heart rate, also to record bowel movements)

Bran (making a mash to help move the bowels.)

Mineral Oil (to help move the bowels, to help clean sheaths)

Banamine (PRESCRIPTION widely used for Colic, as well as other issues.)

Bute paste (PRESCRIPTION widely used for pain.)

Nolvasan or Betadine (to clean wounds)

Iodine (to clean wounds or disinfect the umbilical stump on babies)

DMSO

Liniment (gel or liquid) (to use on overworked or sore muscles)

Latex Gloves (many reasons, mainly for applying disinfectants, DMSO, or liniment)

Antibiotic wound ointment (Neosporin, etc... for minor scrapes and cuts.)

Icthammol

Epsom Salts (soaking hooves, injuries, and is also a laxative.)

Electrolyte Paste (for dehydration)

Sterile Saline Solution (to flush eyes, wounds, or to help get fluids in)

Furazone

BluKote (wound spray)

Styptic Powder (stops bleeding on minor cuts and scrapes)

Metamucil (or Sand Clear) (to prevent sand colic or colic from blockages)

Triple Antibiotic Eye Ointment (non-steroidal) (PRESCRIPTION, called BNP or Bacitracin zinc Neomycin Polymixin - used for any eye injuries or eye infections. Best to get it in ASAP.)

ThrushBuster, CopperTox, or other Thrush remedy (to treat Thrush in hooves)

Hoof Pick (to help clean a hoof that might be injured)

Sponges (new, unopened) (used to apply wound disinfectants or clean wounds)

Towel (bath size) (can be used for any number of reasons)

Vet Wrap (to secure bandages)

Duct Tape (to secure bandages, or to fix things the redneck way)

Elastikon roll

bandage flannels

2 roll gauze

1 package sterile 4x4 gauze sponges

Poultice

Alcohol

Syringes and needles (assorted sizes)

Knife

Tweezers

Scissors

Hemostats

Flash Light

One Man Twitch

Weight Tape

Extra Halter

Extra Lead Rope

Veterinarian's phone number

Old blanket (large) (to help warm a hypothermic horse)

Tarp (horse sized) (for covering if a horse is down and it's raining or snowing, also used to tow things that may be heavy to carry.)

In an emergency - baby diapers or feminine pads can work in place of cotton bandages.

muttduck · 02-25-2007, 07:08 AM

WHY IS MY HORSE UNDERWEIGHT? WHY WON'T MY HORSE GAIN WEIGHT?

Possible Things To Help A Horse Gain/Maintain Weight:

Horses that are "Hard Keepers" could have several underlying issues...
http://forum.horsetopia.com/viewtopic.php?p=241176
http://forum.horsetopia.com/viewtopic.php?t=22654

Things you can do to help your horse:

*An Equine Dental Exam could reveal that there are tooth issues, causing the horse to not chew his grain properly, making digestion difficult, and thereby not allowing the gut to absorb the nutrients properly.

*Internal parasites can cause horses to lose weight, or to not gain weight. Making sure that you are worming regularly can help. If you are regularly worming, but are always using the same brand, you might wish to try rotating worming products to decrease the likelyhood that the parasites have built an immunity to the one you use. To know if this is a cause, you can take a fecal sample to your vet, and they can check it for you.

*Digestion occurs by beneficial bacteria helping to break down food in the gut. Sometimes illnesses, stress, or medications can disrupt the flora in the gut, and the horse is not able to digest properly.
Adding beneficial bacteria back to the gut may help your horse digest his food more efficiently. Products that do this are called Probiotics. One of the most widely known probiotics is "ProBios." It is available through most feed stores.

*During the colder winter months, many issues can arise in regards to weight. One is that horses do not drink as much water. Dehydration can cause rapid weight loss, as well as colic.
To help keep your horse drinking appropriately, make sure to have a salt block available for free choice use. This will encourage drinking.
Make sure that your water trough is not frozen over. There are commercial de-icers that will keep a trough from freezing, and allow your horse access to the water.
Adding Electrolytes to the diet can also help when a horse doesn't drink as much as they should. These products are sold in many forms that can be added right into the daily grain rations.

*Also, during colder months, horses use the fatty layers they have stored, to help hold their body heat. Should it become excessively cold, your horse may use up these fatty stores trying to stay warm.
You can increase the amount of hay your horse eats during the extreme cold to help with body heat production. The act of digesting the fiber in the hay produces heat as a side effect.
You can also blanket your horse if he is exposed to cold weather. (See this topic for more information on when a blanket might be appropriate: http://forum.horsetopia.com/viewtopic.php?t=22654 .)

*Using a higher fat diet can also add weight to a horse. Many feeds are now offering a lower protein / higher fat formula. There are also many supplements are out there, such as Beet Pulp, Rice Bran, Corn Oil, and others.

*Sometimes horses have an appearance of being thinner than they are. This is usually the cas in horses that are not excersized or worked often, and are lacking muscle tone. Common areas that lack tone are the topline, the rump, and the neck. (This topic has excellent info on building muscle: http://forum.horsetopia.com/viewtopi...=18518&start=0 .)

muttduck · 02-25-2007, 07:20 AM

DOES MY HORSE NEED A BLANKET? WHEN SHOULD YOU BLANKET A HORSE?

Blanketting guidelines:

http://forum.horsetopia.com/viewtopic.php?t=21507
http://equisearch.com/horses_care/he...lanket_101904/

The following quote is from the equisearch site, linked above:

Quote:

When to Blanket Your Horse in Winter
Use this handy checklist to decide if it's time to offer your horse a little extra warmth this winter with a blanket.
By Melissa Hower-Moritz, Ph.D.

Some horses are happy in all but the most bitter temperatures, while others shiver on the first cold night of fall. To figure out if your horse needs a blanket, answer the following yes-or-no questions. A "yes" answer to any one means your horse would appreciate a little extra insulation.

1. Is it below 50 degrees Fahrenheit? Even if your horse has a natural (unclipped) haircoat, he may appreciate a blanket at this temperature. This is just a general rule of thumb, since other factors (such as wind, humidity and/or precipitation) may call for a blanket when it's warmer. On the other hand, some horses acclimate to colder temperatures, especially those with thick haircoats.

2. Is his coat clipped? If so, your horse may need a blanket (or at least a sheet) when the mercury drops below 60 degrees F.

3. Does he usually live indoors? If your horse lives even part of the time in a warm barn, he'll feel the cold more than a horse that lives outside full time.

4. Does he live in an open pasture? A full-time outdoor horse will grow a heavy coat to ward off the elements, but wind and rain can destroy that insulating effect. If there's no shelter in his pasture, he may need wind- and water-resistant horse clothing to stay warm.

5. Is his stall drafty? Drafts in your barn may have the same effect as outside breezes--they blow away that layer of warm air next to your horse's skin, making him feel colder.

6. Is he shivering? Don't go by formulas--check your horse to see whether he's too cold. If he's shivering, blanket him (or add blankets) and get him to a shelter. (To see if your horse is too warm, slide your hand under his blanket; if he's sweaty, he needs a lighter covering, or none at all.)

Dr. Hower-Moritz is an associate professor of equine science at University of Minnesota, Crookston.

This article originally appeared in the October 2000 issue of Horse & Rider magazine.

muttduck · 02-25-2007, 07:48 AM

HOW DO I ADD MUSCLE TONE TO MY HORSE?

Building Muscle Tone and Body Condition:

The following topics have good advice on building muscle tone and body condition:

http://forum.horsetopia.com/viewtopic.php?t=18518
http://forum.horsetopia.com/viewtopic.php?t=16811

muttduck · 02-25-2007, 07:58 AM

HOW DO I SCORE MY HORSE'S BODY CONDITION? WHAT SCORE IS IDEAL FOR MY DISCIPLINE?

The Henneke Body Condition Scoring Scale:

This first link has the photos of each scores that I'm posting below, (and more.) Looking at the pics may help.
http://shady-acres.com/susan/conditionscore.shtml

Quote:

Body Scores and Appearances

Condition Score 1: Emaciated: Bony structures of neck, shoulders and withers easily noticeable. Spinous processes, along the ribs, topline, point of hip and point of buttock all project prominently, with an obvious ridge down the back. Individual vertebrae may be identifiable.There is significant space between inner buttocks ("twist"). The animal is extremely emaciated; no fatty tissue can be felt.

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Condition Score 2: Very Thin: Bony structures of the neck, shoulders and withers are faintly discernible. Spinous processes, ribs, topline, point of hip and buttock are prominent. Noticeable space between inner buttocks. Animal is emaciated.

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Condition Score 3: Thin: Neck, withers and shoulder are accentuated, but not obviously thin. Tailhead is prominent. Slight fat cover over ribs, but still easily discernible. Spinous processes, point of hip and point of buttock are rounded, but easily discernible. Twist is filled in, but without noticeable deposition of fatty tissue.

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Condition Score 4: Moderately Thin: Neck, withers and shoulders are not obviously thin. Ribs are faintly discernible. Point of hips and buttocks are not visually discernible. Fat can be felt around the tailhead, prominence somewhat dependent upon conformation. There is a slight negative crease (a ridge) along the topline, especially over the loins and hindquarters.

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Condition Score 5: Moderate: Neck, withers and shoulder appear rounded and blend smoothly into the body. Ribs cannot be seen but are easily felt. Back is level with neither a ridge nor a gully along the topline. Fat around tailhead is beginning to feel spongey. Slight amount of discernible fat deposited between buttocks (twist).

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Condition Score 6: Moderately Fleshy: Fat beginning to be deposited along the neck, withers and shoulders. Fat over the ribs beginning to feel spongey, ribs cannot easily be felt. Fat around tailhead feels soft. May be slight positive crease (gully) along the topline. Noticeable fat deposition between buttocks.

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Condition Score 7: Fleshy: Fat deposited along neck and withers and behind shoulder. Individual ribs can be felt, but with noticeable filling between ribs. Slight positive crease down back. Fat around tailhead feels soft.

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Condition Score 8: Fat: Noticeable thickening of neck. Area along withers is filled with fat, area behind shoulder is filled in flush with body. Ribs cannot be felt, noticeable positive crease down back, fat around tailhead is very soft. Significant fat deposited along inner buttocks.

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Condition Score 9: Extremely Fat: Bulging fat along neck, shoulders and withers. Flank is filled in flush. Patchy fat appearing over ribs, obvious positive crease down back. Obvious fat deposited along inner buttocks.

http://www.equiworld.net/uk/horsecar...ionscoring.htm

Quote:

Suggested Condition Scores for Different Disciplines

Endurance 4-5
Eventing 4-5
Polo 4-5
Ranch 4-5
Open mare 4-6
Stallion (off season) 4-6
Standardbred racehorse 4-6
Thoroughbred racehorse 5-7
Hunter 5-7
Showjumper 5-7
Breeding stallion 5-7
Dressage 6-8
Quarter horse 6-8
Show hack 6-8
Pony 7-8
Pregnant mare 7-8

**taelesean** · 02-26-2007, 09:37 AM

HOW DO I FEED MY NEW HORSE WHEN I DON'T KNOW WHAT IT ATE BEFORE? HOW DO I FEED MY RESCUE?

Basics on feeding horses, especially those whose prior diet was unknown:

Here is the edited version of my ancient but relevant post on feeding horses, especially horses bought at auction or recued and the previous diet is unkown, also kinda answers the question "how do I get my horse to gain weight?"

There is NO excuse for a skinny horse due to neglect, whether from ignorance, cruelty, lazziness or poverty

if your horse keeps losing weight, call the vet, call a freind who has fat, healthy horses....or even the SPCA or the local horse club. Most SPCA chapters, horse clubs and horse rescues will try to help a horse owner in need through almost any tight spot if the horse owner is honest and willing.

Joining a horse society is a good idea, and something of an insurance policy as well....the society I belong to has passed around the hay wagon twice this year, once for a family who's haybarn burnt down just after Christmas (imagine trying to replace several hundred bales of hay at that time of year) and once for a woman who got laid off in February. Both times enough people sent a bale or two each and there was enough hay to get the victims through the tough times.

Other benefits of such organizations include riding with others, emergency help, and showing solidarity to local governments about issues such as zoning, use of parks, and the enactment and enforcement of horse-favorable laws. (not to mention, the fun of being with other horse-nuts) Um, you also may get the oportunity to ride on other people's private traills, in parades, and at the group's sponsored shows, etc.

However, ignorance itself is excuseable, we are all born with it

but it is easily curable.

I don;t know why its so hard to get good, simple advise on feeding horses, other than that everyone is worried about being held liable for some horse's health problems

Since I am not claiming to be an authority, I can safely spell it out for everyone and anyone who reads this, without worrying about a lawsuit.

Here is how to determine what to feed a new horse that you don't know alot about. It is the method used by professionals to determine the feed for a horse that has been bought at auction or siezed by law enforcement for neglect or abuse. Its not foolproof, but its pretty good.

First, determine your horse's ideal estimated weight, that is, the weight he or she SHOULD weigh. This is somewhat subjective, as horses come in all sorts of builds, from tall and narrow to short and wide, but if you can get close, it should be fine, since the feed rate is adjusted to results.

For every hundred pounds of ideal weight of horse you should feed every day:

One and One-half pounds of good hay or forage

and

NO MORE than One-half pound of concentrates (grain or textured feed)

the horse should have access to all the clean water it wants and a source of salt.

Start your horse on just the hay or forage for at least three days. If you have rich pasture, limit the horse's turn-out for at least the first week.(horses will graze at a rate of about 2 pounds per hour on healthy pasture) Add concentrates at a rate of no more than a One-half pound increase every three days.

Adjust the amount of feed in response to your horse's weight. Adjust the amount of concentrates first, adding or subtracting no more than one-half pound every three days. When you have reached the maximum amount of one half pound of concentrates for every hundred pounds of estimated ideal weight of horse without achieving the desired weight gain, start adding higher calorie foods, such as corn, beet pulp, oil or molases. Add these high-energy foods in small increments over time, to avoid colic or overfeeding. If the horse is Overweight, reduce or eliminate the amount of concentrated feed in faster increments. (you can reduce feed faster than you can increase it) if he or she is still gaining weight or not losing it without concentrates, reduce the amount of hay or turn-out at pasture, or increase the horse's activity leval.

When using this guide, it is important to measure by weight, using a scale, or by consistant volume only when aproppriate (such as when measuring corn oil)

Also very impottant is the use of a scale or the consistant use of a weight tape to monitor your horse's weight. Measure the horse weekly and keep a written record of measurements.

If you use a bagged feed, remember that it may count as BOTH part of the horse's forage AND as concentrates, depending on the fiber content. Always check the label of bagged feed to determine the correct proportions.

This formula assumes the horse is healthy and mature, relatively free of parasites, has good dentition and is in light to moderately heavy work. Horses that are in heavy to extreme training or that are comfined to thier stall, or that are pregnant or lactating have diferent nutritional needs - cosult a profesional or dig into severl of those dry tomes mentioned below to determine the diet for those animals.

Sounds simple enough, doesnt it? So why did I have to dig into dry, technical, stodgy books found only in the libraries of colleges that have veterinary courses to find it?

Or, here is the link to unrevised and entire thread:

http://forum.horsetopia.com/viewtopi...ht=skinny+mare

muttduck · 03-04-2007, 07:34 AM

HOW DO I WEIGH MY HORSE?

Measuring the weight of your horse:

http://forum.horsetopia.com/viewtopic.php?t=24462
Thank you to Touche and Leadmare for option 1!

OPTION 1:
Measure (in inches) around the horse's barrel immediately behind the elbow. Wait for the horse to exhale before taking your reading off the tape. This measurement is called the "heartgirth."

The "length" is measured in inches from the point of the shoulder to the point of the buttock. One end of the tape is held on the point of shoulder and the tape in run along the horses side diagonally to the point of buttock.

With the two measurements you have taken, use the following formula to work out your horses' weight:

Multiply:
heartgirth x heartgirth x length.
Divide those results by 330
Then add 50.

This should be close to your horses' weight.

OPTION 2:
You can use a "weight tape" around your horse's heartgirth. Snugly wrap it around until it goes all the way. Where the end meets the tape again, should be within 25 pounds of your horse's weight.
http://www.horse.com/products/gift-0__sku-BRW17.html

OPTION 3:
Load up your horse into your trailer and haul them to the nearest truck scale, or veterinary office, and weight them there. This method would be the most accurate.

02-24-2007, 11:37 AM
muttduck Kid Safe Join Date: Jan 2005 Location: Central Kentucky Posts: 6,957	NEW Health & Nutrition- Frequenty Asked Questions Hello, Horsetopians!! We are going to test a new feature here in Health and Nutrition. It is an FAQ list of the Frequently Asked Health and Nutrition Questions. Should this feature become popular, we may slowly add FAQ's for each forum. If you have thoughts or opinions about this new feature, please PM them to myself or Annie. Thank you, muttduck ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Click on the question below, and it will take you to the reply that has a direct answer to the question, or links that will help you answer your question. (For Dial Up users, feel free to scroll down the replies to get the answer to your question, they are in the same order as the questions.) This FAQ is not meant to prohibit educational discussions or debates in the forum. It is meant to be a simple reference tool to help quickly find answers to basic questions. Disclaimer: The questions and answers posted in these forums are for educational purposes only. The answers given will be general and every case is different. As a result, you should always consult with your own veterinarian or specialist when making decisions about your horse's care. Horsetopia.com and our members will not be held liable for any information posted in these forums. This information is not to be used to make important decisions about the care of your horse or replace a certified veterinarian's opinion. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- WHAT IS THE RECOMMENDED VACCINATION SCHEDULE? WHAT IS THE RECOMMENDATION FOR ROTATING WORMERS? HOW DO YOU ROTATE WORMERS? HOW TALL WILL MY FOAL GET? HOW DO I FEED ALFALFA CUBES OR OTHER FIBER/HAY SUPPLEMENTS? HOW DO I CLEAN MY GELDING'S/STALLION'S SHEATH? WHAT ARE THE VITAL SIGNS OF AN ADULT HORSE? WHAT SHOULD I HAVE IN MY EMERGENCY FIRST AID KIT? WHY IS MY HORSE UNDERWEIGHT? WHY WON'T MY HORSE GAIN WEIGHT? DOES MY HORSE NEED A BLANKET? WHEN SHOULD YOU BLANKET A HORSE? HOW DO I ADD MUSCLE TONE TO MY HORSE? HOW DO I SCORE MY HORSE'S BODY CONDITION? WHAT SCORE IS IDEAL FOR MY DISCIPLINE? HOW DO I FEED MY NEW HORSE WHEN I DON'T KNOW WHAT IT ATE BEFORE? HOW DO I FEED MY RESCUE? HOW DO I WEIGH MY HORSE? __________________ Custom stall signs and pet portraits, Wood Burned by hand with your equine's (or pet's) image: www.WoodburnedPetPortraits.com Self Defense Supplies, Stun Guns, Pepper Sprays: https://selfprotectionsupplies.com/

02-24-2007, 04:52 PM
muttduck Kid Safe Join Date: Jan 2005 Location: Central Kentucky Posts: 6,957	Re: (The Soon To Be) Health & Nutrition FAQ Stickie WHAT IS THE RECOMMENDED VACCINATION SCHEDULE? Vaccination basics: The following links are to two seperate PDF files (dial uppers, it takes a little while to open). These links are directly from the AAEP, and are their current recommendations. The PDF files open to a convenient chart format, making it easy to see what is due when. Adults over 1 = http://www.aaep.org/images/files/Adu...revised108.pdf Foals up to 1 = http://www.aaep.org/images/files/Foa...onfinal108.pdf __________________ Custom stall signs and pet portraits, Wood Burned by hand with your equine's (or pet's) image: www.WoodburnedPetPortraits.com Self Defense Supplies, Stun Guns, Pepper Sprays: https://selfprotectionsupplies.com/ Last edited by muttduck : 07-26-2008 at 10:28 AM.

02-24-2007, 04:53 PM
muttduck Kid Safe Join Date: Jan 2005 Location: Central Kentucky Posts: 6,957	Re: (The Soon To Be) Health & Nutrition FAQ Stickie WHAT IS THE RECOMMENDATION FOR ROTATING WORMERS? HOW DO YOU ROTATE WORMERS? Wormer rotation basics: Products used to rid your horse of internal parasites vary widely by manufacturer. It is often recommended to 'rotate' wormers each time you use one, so that your horse receives the most effect from the product. When rotating, you should make sure that the wormer you are going to use does not have the same active ingredient as the wormer you last used. Just changing product names will not mean you are rotating wormers. IMPORTANT NOTE: Moxidectin is not recommended for foals, ponies, or minis, as it is too easily overdosed!!! *The following is a generic* schedule of rotation, with product names and their active ingredients listed. Because parasites vary from location to location, and because some parasites are showing resistence to certain wormers, you should consult your veterinarian to be sure that you are following a rotation that is ideal for your location and situation. January/February......... Anthelcide EQ Paste (oxibendazole) ........................................Panacur Paste (fenbendazole) ........................................Safe-Guard Paste (fenbendazole) March/April....................ComboCare (2% moxidectin & 12.5% praziquantel) ........................................Equell Paste (1.87% ivermectin) ........................................EquiMax Paste (1.87% ivermectin & 14.03% praziquantel) ........................................Equimectrin Paste (1.87% ivermectin) ........................................Horse Health Ivermectin Paste (1.87% ivermectin) ........................................IverCare Paste (1.87% ivermectin) ........................................Quest Gel (moxidectin) ........................................Rotectin 1.87% Paste (1.87% ivermectin) ........................................Zimecterin Paste (1.87% ivermectin) ........................................Zimecterin Gold Paste (1.55% ivermectin & 7.75% praziquantel) May/June........................Equi-Cide Paste (pyrantel pamoate) ........................................Rotectin P Paste (pyrantel pamoate) ........................................Strongid Paste (pyrantel pamoate) ........................................Strongylecare Paste (pyrantel pamoate) ........................................TapeCare Plus Paste (pyrantel pamoate) July/August................... Anthelcide EQ Paste (oxibendazole) ........................................Panacur Paste (fenbendazole) ........................................Safe-Guard Paste (fenbendazole) September/October.......ComboCare (2% moxidectin & 12.5% praziquantel) ........................................Equell Paste (1.87% ivermectin) ........................................EquiMax Paste (1.87% ivermectin & 14.03% praziquantel) ........................................Equimectrin Paste (1.87% ivermectin) ........................................Horse Health Ivermectin Paste (1.87% ivermectin) ........................................IverCare Paste (1.87% ivermectin) ........................................Quest Gel (moxidectin) ........................................Rotectin 1.87% Paste (1.87% ivermectin) ........................................Zimecterin Paste (1.87% ivermectin) ........................................Zimecterin Gold Paste (1.55% ivermectin & 7.75% praziquantel) November/December*.....Equi-Cide Paste (pyrantel pamoate) ........................................Rotectin P Paste (pyrantel pamoate) ........................................Strongid Paste (pyrantel pamoate) ........................................Strongylecare Paste (pyrantel pamoate) ........................................TapeCare Plus Paste (pyrantel pamoate) __________________ Custom stall signs and pet portraits, Wood Burned by hand with your equine's (or pet's) image: www.WoodburnedPetPortraits.com Self Defense Supplies, Stun Guns, Pepper Sprays: https://selfprotectionsupplies.com/ Last edited by muttduck : 07-26-2008 at 10:33 AM.*

02-24-2007, 04:54 PM
muttduck Kid Safe Join Date: Jan 2005 Location: Central Kentucky Posts: 6,957	Re: (The Soon To Be) Health & Nutrition FAQ Stickie HOW TALL WILL MY FOAL GET? How to estimate mature size, using calculations and the "string test": http://forum.horsetopia.com/viewtopic.php?p=208339 String test A: Measuring the coronet band to the center of the knee on the foreleg. If it reads 12 3/4 inches, she would get to be 12 3/4 hands tall. 14 1/2 inches = 14 1/2 hands And so on... String test B: You measure the horse from the point of the ergot to the point of the elbow. You take that measurement and (keeping your hand on the elbow) circle your other hand up (like a compass) extending UP beyond the withers. How high it reaches is how tall the horse will be, except: If the horse is still a weanling, add 2 inches to that height, and if it's a yearling add one inch. Method C: To estimate height use a calculator, and the formula is: birth height in inches divided by .6356, (this would be divided by 4 to get the hands.) Convert the decimals as follows: __.00 = 0/4 = __:0hh __.25 = 1/4 = __:1hh __.50 = 1/2 = __:2hh __.75 = 3/4 = __:3hh __________________ Custom stall signs and pet portraits, Wood Burned by hand with your equine's (or pet's) image: www.WoodburnedPetPortraits.com Self Defense Supplies, Stun Guns, Pepper Sprays: https://selfprotectionsupplies.com/

02-24-2007, 05:54 PM
muttduck Kid Safe Join Date: Jan 2005 Location: Central Kentucky Posts: 6,957	WHAT ARE THE VITAL SIGNS OF AN ADULT HORSE? Normal Vital Signs of the Adult Horse: Rectal Temperature - 100.5ÂºF (37-38ÂºC) (Note: So you don't lose the thermometer in your horse, attach a piece of string to the handle end along with an alligator clip. When the thermometer is inserted, fasten the alligator clip to tail hairs, thus securing it! Insert the thermometer gently along the rectal wall to get the temperature of the horse, not its manure.) foals & yearlings can have normal temperatures up to 102 degrees. normal temperatures may run slightly higher in hot, humid weather; if horse is in direct sunlight or has just been exercised. Pulse - 32-44 beats per minute (The pulse can be taken from an area under the jaw, from beneath the tail at its bone, or from an area on the side of the horse's foot. Since most horses will not stand still enough to count heartbeats for a full minute, count for 15 seconds and multiply by four.) young horses have a faster heart rate foals 2-4 weeks old = 70 to 90 beats per minute foals 6 to 12 months old = 45 to 60 beats per minute horses 2 to 3 years old = 40 to 50 beats per minute Respiration - 12-20 breaths per minute (Watch or feel your horse's ribcage/belly for one minute. Be sure to count 1 inhale and 1 exhale as one breath (not as two). If you are having difficulty seeing the ribcage move, try watching the horse's nostrils or place your hand in front of the nostrils to feel the horse exhale, keep in mind that the respiration rate should NEVER exceed the pulse rate.) Gut Sounds - Gut sounds should always be present. (Press your ear up against your horse's barrel just behind his last rib. If you hear gurgling noises, he's fine. Be sure to check gut sounds from both sides. The absence of gut sounds is more indicative of a problem than excessive gut sounds. Usually, an absence of gut sounds indicates colic. If you don't hear any sounds, contact your veterinarian.) Capillary Refill Time - less than 2 seconds (Capillary Refill Time (CRT) is the time it takes for blood to return to blanched tissues in the gums. This is an indicator of blood circulation. Normal refill time is 1 to 2 seconds. Lift your horse's upper lip up and firmly press your thumb against his gums for 2 seconds to create a white mark. This white mark should return to the normal pink colour within 1-2 seconds after releasing the pressure.) Mucous Membranes - pale pink (The mucous membranes are the lining of a horse's eyelids, his gums and the inside of his nostrils. The colour of the mucous membranes, are another indicator of blood circulation. A healthy horse's gums are slightly paler than a human. If a horse's gums are very pale, bright red, greyish blue or bright yellow, call a veterinarian immediately.) Dehydration - Skin Elasticity : less than 1 second (Check by pinching skin and seeing how long it takes to return to normal. Pinch the skin on your horse's neck. If the skin flattens back into place in less than 1 second when you let go, the horse is fine. If it doesn't, it means he isn't drinking enough water and is dehydrated.) Hoof Temperature: Luke Warm** __________________ Custom stall signs and pet portraits, Wood Burned by hand with your equine's (or pet's) image: www.WoodburnedPetPortraits.com Self Defense Supplies, Stun Guns, Pepper Sprays: https://selfprotectionsupplies.com/

02-24-2007, 06:16 PM
muttduck Kid Safe Join Date: Jan 2005 Location: Central Kentucky Posts: 6,957	WHAT SHOULD I HAVE IN MY EMERGENCY FIRST AID KIT? Suggested First Aid Materials to Keep On Hand: Thermometer on a string (for Rectal Temperature) Stethoscope (To listen to breathing or for gut sounds) Watch (to time breathing or heart rate, also to record bowel movements) Bran (making a mash to help move the bowels.) Mineral Oil (to help move the bowels, to help clean sheaths) Banamine (PRESCRIPTION widely used for Colic, as well as other issues.) Bute paste (PRESCRIPTION widely used for pain.) Nolvasan or Betadine (to clean wounds) Iodine (to clean wounds or disinfect the umbilical stump on babies) DMSO Liniment (gel or liquid) (to use on overworked or sore muscles) Latex Gloves (many reasons, mainly for applying disinfectants, DMSO, or liniment) Antibiotic wound ointment (Neosporin, etc... for minor scrapes and cuts.) Icthammol Epsom Salts (soaking hooves, injuries, and is also a laxative.) Electrolyte Paste (for dehydration) Sterile Saline Solution (to flush eyes, wounds, or to help get fluids in) Furazone BluKote (wound spray) Styptic Powder (stops bleeding on minor cuts and scrapes) Metamucil (or Sand Clear) (to prevent sand colic or colic from blockages) Triple Antibiotic Eye Ointment (non-steroidal) (PRESCRIPTION, called BNP or Bacitracin zinc Neomycin Polymixin - used for any eye injuries or eye infections. Best to get it in ASAP.) ThrushBuster, CopperTox, or other Thrush remedy (to treat Thrush in hooves) Hoof Pick (to help clean a hoof that might be injured) Sponges (new, unopened) (used to apply wound disinfectants or clean wounds) Towel (bath size) (can be used for any number of reasons) Vet Wrap (to secure bandages) Duct Tape (to secure bandages, or to fix things the redneck way) Elastikon roll bandage flannels 2 roll gauze 1 package sterile 4x4 gauze sponges Poultice Alcohol Syringes and needles (assorted sizes) Knife Tweezers Scissors Hemostats Flash Light One Man Twitch Weight Tape Extra Halter Extra Lead Rope Veterinarian's phone number Old blanket (large) (to help warm a hypothermic horse) Tarp (horse sized) (for covering if a horse is down and it's raining or snowing, also used to tow things that may be heavy to carry.) In an emergency - baby diapers or feminine pads can work in place of cotton bandages. __________________ Custom stall signs and pet portraits, Wood Burned by hand with your equine's (or pet's) image: www.WoodburnedPetPortraits.com Self Defense Supplies, Stun Guns, Pepper Sprays: https://selfprotectionsupplies.com/

02-25-2007, 07:08 AM
muttduck Kid Safe Join Date: Jan 2005 Location: Central Kentucky Posts: 6,957	WHY IS MY HORSE UNDERWEIGHT? WHY WON'T MY HORSE GAIN WEIGHT? Possible Things To Help A Horse Gain/Maintain Weight: Horses that are "Hard Keepers" could have several underlying issues... http://forum.horsetopia.com/viewtopic.php?p=241176 http://forum.horsetopia.com/viewtopic.php?t=22654 Things you can do to help your horse: An Equine Dental Exam could reveal that there are tooth issues, causing the horse to not chew his grain properly, making digestion difficult, and thereby not allowing the gut to absorb the nutrients properly. Internal parasites can cause horses to lose weight, or to not gain weight. Making sure that you are worming regularly can help. If you are regularly worming, but are always using the same brand, you might wish to try rotating worming products to decrease the likelyhood that the parasites have built an immunity to the one you use. To know if this is a cause, you can take a fecal sample to your vet, and they can check it for you. Digestion occurs by beneficial bacteria helping to break down food in the gut. Sometimes illnesses, stress, or medications can disrupt the flora in the gut, and the horse is not able to digest properly. Adding beneficial bacteria back to the gut may help your horse digest his food more efficiently. Products that do this are called Probiotics. One of the most widely known probiotics is "ProBios." It is available through most feed stores. During the colder winter months, many issues can arise in regards to weight. One is that horses do not drink as much water. Dehydration can cause rapid weight loss, as well as colic. To help keep your horse drinking appropriately, make sure to have a salt block available for free choice use. This will encourage drinking. Make sure that your water trough is not frozen over. There are commercial de-icers that will keep a trough from freezing, and allow your horse access to the water. Adding Electrolytes to the diet can also help when a horse doesn't drink as much as they should. These products are sold in many forms that can be added right into the daily grain rations. Also, during colder months, horses use the fatty layers they have stored, to help hold their body heat. Should it become excessively cold, your horse may use up these fatty stores trying to stay warm. You can increase the amount of hay your horse eats during the extreme cold to help with body heat production. The act of digesting the fiber in the hay produces heat as a side effect. You can also blanket your horse if he is exposed to cold weather. (See this topic for more information on when a blanket might be appropriate: http://forum.horsetopia.com/viewtopic.php?t=22654 .) Using a higher fat diet can also add weight to a horse. Many feeds are now offering a lower protein / higher fat formula. There are also many supplements are out there, such as Beet Pulp, Rice Bran, Corn Oil, and others. *Sometimes horses have an appearance of being thinner than they are. This is usually the cas in horses that are not excersized or worked often, and are lacking muscle tone. Common areas that lack tone are the topline, the rump, and the neck. (This topic has excellent info on building muscle: http://forum.horsetopia.com/viewtopi...=18518&start=0 .) __________________ Custom stall signs and pet portraits, Wood Burned by hand with your equine's (or pet's) image: www.WoodburnedPetPortraits.com Self Defense Supplies, Stun Guns, Pepper Sprays: https://selfprotectionsupplies.com/

02-25-2007, 07:48 AM
muttduck Kid Safe Join Date: Jan 2005 Location: Central Kentucky Posts: 6,957	Re: (The Soon To Be) Health & Nutrition FAQ Stickie HOW DO I ADD MUSCLE TONE TO MY HORSE? Building Muscle Tone and Body Condition: The following topics have good advice on building muscle tone and body condition: http://forum.horsetopia.com/viewtopic.php?t=18518 http://forum.horsetopia.com/viewtopic.php?t=16811 __________________ Custom stall signs and pet portraits, Wood Burned by hand with your equine's (or pet's) image: www.WoodburnedPetPortraits.com Self Defense Supplies, Stun Guns, Pepper Sprays: https://selfprotectionsupplies.com/

02-26-2007, 09:37 AM
taelesean Administrator Join Date: Apr 2005 Location: Virginia Posts: 6,319	HOW DO I FEED MY NEW HORSE WHEN I DON'T KNOW WHAT IT ATE BEFORE? HOW DO I FEED MY RESCUE? Basics on feeding horses, especially those whose prior diet was unknown: Here is the edited version of my ancient but relevant post on feeding horses, especially horses bought at auction or recued and the previous diet is unkown, also kinda answers the question "how do I get my horse to gain weight?" There is NO excuse for a skinny horse due to neglect, whether from ignorance, cruelty, lazziness or poverty if your horse keeps losing weight, call the vet, call a freind who has fat, healthy horses....or even the SPCA or the local horse club. Most SPCA chapters, horse clubs and horse rescues will try to help a horse owner in need through almost any tight spot if the horse owner is honest and willing. Joining a horse society is a good idea, and something of an insurance policy as well....the society I belong to has passed around the hay wagon twice this year, once for a family who's haybarn burnt down just after Christmas (imagine trying to replace several hundred bales of hay at that time of year) and once for a woman who got laid off in February. Both times enough people sent a bale or two each and there was enough hay to get the victims through the tough times. Other benefits of such organizations include riding with others, emergency help, and showing solidarity to local governments about issues such as zoning, use of parks, and the enactment and enforcement of horse-favorable laws. (not to mention, the fun of being with other horse-nuts) Um, you also may get the oportunity to ride on other people's private traills, in parades, and at the group's sponsored shows, etc. However, ignorance itself is excuseable, we are all born with it but it is easily curable. I don;t know why its so hard to get good, simple advise on feeding horses, other than that everyone is worried about being held liable for some horse's health problems Since I am not claiming to be an authority, I can safely spell it out for everyone and anyone who reads this, without worrying about a lawsuit. Here is how to determine what to feed a new horse that you don't know alot about. It is the method used by professionals to determine the feed for a horse that has been bought at auction or siezed by law enforcement for neglect or abuse. Its not foolproof, but its pretty good. First, determine your horse's ideal estimated weight, that is, the weight he or she SHOULD weigh. This is somewhat subjective, as horses come in all sorts of builds, from tall and narrow to short and wide, but if you can get close, it should be fine, since the feed rate is adjusted to results. For every hundred pounds of ideal weight of horse you should feed every day: One and One-half pounds of good hay or forage and NO MORE than One-half pound of concentrates (grain or textured feed) the horse should have access to all the clean water it wants and a source of salt. Start your horse on just the hay or forage for at least three days. If you have rich pasture, limit the horse's turn-out for at least the first week.(horses will graze at a rate of about 2 pounds per hour on healthy pasture) Add concentrates at a rate of no more than a One-half pound increase every three days. Adjust the amount of feed in response to your horse's weight. Adjust the amount of concentrates first, adding or subtracting no more than one-half pound every three days. When you have reached the maximum amount of one half pound of concentrates for every hundred pounds of estimated ideal weight of horse without achieving the desired weight gain, start adding higher calorie foods, such as corn, beet pulp, oil or molases. Add these high-energy foods in small increments over time, to avoid colic or overfeeding. If the horse is Overweight, reduce or eliminate the amount of concentrated feed in faster increments. (you can reduce feed faster than you can increase it) if he or she is still gaining weight or not losing it without concentrates, reduce the amount of hay or turn-out at pasture, or increase the horse's activity leval. When using this guide, it is important to measure by weight, using a scale, or by consistant volume only when aproppriate (such as when measuring corn oil) Also very impottant is the use of a scale or the consistant use of a weight tape to monitor your horse's weight. Measure the horse weekly and keep a written record of measurements. If you use a bagged feed, remember that it may count as BOTH part of the horse's forage AND as concentrates, depending on the fiber content. Always check the label of bagged feed to determine the correct proportions. This formula assumes the horse is healthy and mature, relatively free of parasites, has good dentition and is in light to moderately heavy work. Horses that are in heavy to extreme training or that are comfined to thier stall, or that are pregnant or lactating have diferent nutritional needs - cosult a profesional or dig into severl of those dry tomes mentioned below to determine the diet for those animals. Sounds simple enough, doesnt it? So why did I have to dig into dry, technical, stodgy books found only in the libraries of colleges that have veterinary courses to find it? Or, here is the link to unrevised and entire thread: http://forum.horsetopia.com/viewtopi...ht=skinny+mare __________________

03-04-2007, 07:34 AM
muttduck Kid Safe Join Date: Jan 2005 Location: Central Kentucky Posts: 6,957	HOW DO I WEIGH MY HORSE? Measuring the weight of your horse: http://forum.horsetopia.com/viewtopic.php?t=24462 Thank you to Touche and Leadmare for option 1! OPTION 1: Measure (in inches) around the horse's barrel immediately behind the elbow. Wait for the horse to exhale before taking your reading off the tape. This measurement is called the "heartgirth." The "length" is measured in inches from the point of the shoulder to the point of the buttock. One end of the tape is held on the point of shoulder and the tape in run along the horses side diagonally to the point of buttock. With the two measurements you have taken, use the following formula to work out your horses' weight: Multiply: heartgirth x heartgirth x length. Divide those results by 330 Then add 50. This should be close to your horses' weight. OPTION 2: You can use a "weight tape" around your horse's heartgirth. Snugly wrap it around until it goes all the way. Where the end meets the tape again, should be within 25 pounds of your horse's weight. http://www.horse.com/products/gift-0__sku-BRW17.html OPTION 3: Load up your horse into your trailer and haul them to the nearest truck scale, or veterinary office, and weight them there. This method would be the most accurate. __________________ Custom stall signs and pet portraits, Wood Burned by hand with your equine's (or pet's) image: www.WoodburnedPetPortraits.com Self Defense Supplies, Stun Guns, Pepper Sprays: https://selfprotectionsupplies.com/