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Old 07-06-2008, 08:01 PM  
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barbless wire

Does anyone on here use barbless wire around their pastures? If so, how is it connected to the posts? Have you had any issue w/ injury?

Went to TSC today, to buy fencing for a new (1 acre) pasture. Hubby wants to do 3 strands barbless wire and electrify it. (His dad has done it this way forever) and not use high tensile. Guy at TSC says that does not work (explains why fil fencer is always shorting out) 'cuz fencer will short out and not work right. So, he told us to staple the barbless wire on and run a hot wire on the inside in addition. So, that's all making sense, except I thought that using staples to hold was a bad idea, as it would not pull out from a post IF a horse did get caught up in it. Hubby said how is it any better to have a horse get caught, pull the wire out and get tangled in it?
So, my idea was that if they can get loose, they may not be as badly injured, he states they will be badly injured either way.
So I say use smaller staples that would pull out in a struggle, he said longer staples, as you don't want it to pull out. Maybe neither of us are right. In the end, out of frustration, we bought nothing.
Now, I am not even sure I want to mess w/ wire. In the beginning, I thought the wire would be on connectors and under struggle, connectors might break- freeing the horse. The horses that will go in the area are used to wire but are in a much larger area, so I do worry being in only an acre, there could be trouble. I feel if they have long staples, under the stress of a struggle, they won't give at all. If they had smaller staples, they may give and the horse may have a chance to free himself.
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Old 07-06-2008, 08:05 PM  
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I have one pen that is two strands of double twist and two strands of hot wire/tape.

Top and third wires hot, second and bottom wires cold double twist.

Mine is hung on t-posts with wire clips. On wood posts I've always uses the longer staples and strung it tight enough to play a tune on. The tighter the fence is the less likely a horse is to get caught up in it.

I'd be far more worried about a staple pulling loose and getting caught in my horses foot than him getting tangled up in the wire if it's strung good and tight.
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Old 07-06-2008, 08:19 PM  
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At our other place - we had 2 stands of barbless double twisted wire(bottom and middle) and 1 strand of high tensile(top). The high tensile was hot, as well as the middle wire of twisted barbless wire. We used the regular, claw(one up, one down) like insulators(blanking on their correct name) on t-posts and circle corner insulators with wood posts on corners. We never had a problem with shorting out(had approx. 5 acres fenced). We had a horse get out once, she got chased through the fence. The insulators gave and popped off and she didn't have any serious damage but had a few scrapes and was soar. I never had one get tangled in it. I think insulators are the way to go - I agree with you that the wire needs to pop free to let the horse get out of it. I kept my wires TIGHTTTTTT at all times - no lines can be sagging.

When I fence the new property, I'm going to use braided electric rope.
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Old 07-06-2008, 08:30 PM  
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I have personally seen way worse injuries by the wire coming loose than by it being tight with long staples. I've seen horses put there foot over the wire and lift it off because the wire stayed put. I'd rather tight and solid than maybe having the wire pull loose.
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Old 07-06-2008, 08:43 PM  
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Barbless wire is great. We use a fence tighter to make sure the wire is nice and tight. We use that with the 1 inch white ribbon. The barbless wire is electric and the white ribbon is just for added site. Love it.
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Old 07-06-2008, 10:07 PM  
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we use barbless also.wire connecters on tposts.staples on corner posts.and a hot wire strand with the 2 inch connecters.i had a horse get into fence.she spooked in middle of night.went through fence,flipped outside of pen.no idea how.thats when we made a hot wire.tore up her leg a little.but she didnt struggle just laid there.could have been much worse.high tensile stretches so bad!my dad tried it and boy was he sorry.but maybe theres a trick to stringing it.
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Old 07-06-2008, 10:50 PM  
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We use barbless also...staples in the wood posts and clips on the tposts...running a hot line on the inside or top is a good idea...other wise they will lean over it (like mine do)...as far as injuries...I'd rather deal with a scrape to the hide then a cut...dog chased Jet thru and over it once...he tumbled but only scraped his leg some...thats the worst thats happened with ours...
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Old 07-06-2008, 11:03 PM  
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We have about an acre and ahalf in treated cedar posts and barbless wire. It is 4 strands high with a hot wire in between the second and third string to keep them from leaning on it. It is threaded through holes in the posts and strung really tight. We used these things that can be tightened with a wratched thingy. I will try to get pictures so that you all can see it. It looks really nice and to us its the safest thing we have used in along time. The horses see it and either stop or turn away. Never once has anyone hit it or gotten close to be tangled in it. And its low enough the mins cant get out. It did take awhile to put up but worth it. Our corner posts are rr ties with braces on them.
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Old 07-06-2008, 11:10 PM  
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I have a picture but I cant figure out how to get it here from my documents..Help??
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Old 07-06-2008, 11:16 PM  
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http://i220.photobucket.com/albums/d...ysHorse002.jpg
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Old 07-06-2008, 11:17 PM  
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http://i220.photobucket.com/albums/d...ysHorse004.jpg
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Old 07-06-2008, 11:18 PM  
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You can kinda see what I was talking about in the last pic..
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Old 07-06-2008, 11:31 PM  
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If you use barbless do not alow it to come free as it will cause more damage than solid tight fencing. My mare just went through the barbless wire at a corner that was put up by the previous home owner with trees from the forest I have replaced all of them now but the corner had been rotten and I didnt notice it. she got all tangled up in it and I thought I was going to have to put her down as she didnt want to walk at all. Shes now walking and running but still has scrapes and fluid buildup above her knee. its going to take a long time for that to go away but anyway if it had been solid she would have just bounced off it. Instead it gave way along with all the strands and she got tangled up.
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Old 07-07-2008, 01:51 PM  
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I like the idea of boring a hole through the fence posts. We are using round wooden fence posts and for the corners -cut telephone posts w/ bracing.
Thanks for listing your experiences w/ this, it has been most helpful.
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Old 07-08-2008, 12:31 PM  
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Sagginess?

Has anyone had much problem w/ the wire sagging after having stapled it tight against the fence? A coworker of mine states even if you staple it tight, it will sag and need to be re tightened due to the nature of the wire..and if the staples are put tight, you'd have problems snugging it up down the road w/out a bunch of work to first loosen the staples...I thought if it was nice and tight, it would not sag....obviously I've never used these materials before, so I have lots of questions !
Thanks again...
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Old 07-08-2008, 01:23 PM  
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We tightened our up maybe once every 2 yrs. unless deer run into it but with the white ribbon up for site that hasn't been an issue. We use the wire insulators though so that if we ever have to we can tighten the fence without having to pull up staples.
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Old 07-25-2008, 02:00 PM  
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I like the idea of drilling holes through the posts and putting the wire through. I have rollers at the end so you can just tighten them with a ratchet tool when needed. I have also been thinking of replacing my fence with coated wire. It makes it look nicer and adds protection to it.
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Old 07-25-2008, 03:08 PM  
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If you utilize strainers/tensioners connected to the corners at the end of the run strands you can check and tighten your fence as needed without having to pull out the large tightening tool.


Strainer/tensioner looks like this......


http://cgi.ebay.com/In-Line-Strainer...QQcmdZViewItem


There is a small ratchet like tool you can buy that fits over the round end of that strainer and you can rotate , tighten and lock your line tight in place.
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